Tissot's PRX Pioneers Innovation

Tissot introduces new PRX models, featuring its inaugural forged carbon variant, in addition to the Grendizer edition and the PR516 chronograph.

Tissot PR516 and PRX Forged Carbon

As previously said, it is challenging to discover engaging horological content that is also readily accessible. Frequently, when the novelty value escalates, so do the price points; this is anticipated, considering that watchmaking functions on economies of scale. Utilize the forged carbon material, hitherto employed solely by luxury watchmakers who commanded a substantial premium for it. The Tissot Sideral, featured in WOW's cover story precisely one year ago, transformed the situation dramatically. This was not an isolated incident for the brand, as discussed in WOW’s Autumn Issue #74 cover story.

This year, rather than examining the historical context of material experimentation at Tissot, we opted to consult CEO Sylvain Dolla for his insights once more. Dolla is currently in his 20th year at Swatch Group, having initially contributed to the Swatch Paparazzi watch, and he candidly identifies as a genuine watch aficionado. Before assuming leadership at Tissot, Dolla dedicated 15 fruitful years to Hamilton, and we are inclined to attribute that brand's achievements to his influence as well. This type of reasoning is compounded by the reality that Swatch Group is a collective, implying multiple individuals are accountable for any specific outcome.

The PRX that enthralled us in 2021, particularly the automatic variant showcased on the cover of that year's Autumn issue, may indeed be referred to as Dolla’s. This is due to his discovery – or rediscovery – of the original 1970s model that would serve as the inspiration for the PRX, as he has communicated to several media, including us, Time and Tide, and WatchPro, most recently. It was undoubtedly not a timepiece that originated from a focus group, as Dolla notably articulated to Alexandre Lindz of WatchAdvisor.

Unanticipated Triumph

If you are curious about the factors contributing to the PRX's commercial success, this likely provides some insight. A watch aficionado unearthed a concealed treasure within the brand's archives, driven by an intuitive conviction. This aligns with the characteristics of a successful sports elegance watch in the 2020s.

This edition, although featuring a soloist on the cover, primarily presents an ensemble performance, encompassing the PRX Forged Carbon piece, the PRX Grendizer, several new dial types, and the PR516. If this is unfamiliar to you, it may indicate that you have not received a comprehensive introduction to the PRX itself. Regardless, you may not be aware of our commentary regarding the collection.

If you are encountering the Tissot PRX for the first time, you have overlooked a significant narrative in contemporary Swiss horology. The modest quartz variant of this product, known as PRX, had remarkable popularity, resulting in sellouts across multiple regions. In the year 2021, at the very least. Several years later, the collection has established its significance and undergone multiple enhancements - it has emerged as a cultural emblem, a development that Tissot could not have anticipated with the initial timepiece. As we observed three years prior, this is not the original timepiece, and there exists a compelling history associated with it.

Vibrant Attire

The defining characteristic of the PRX may be encapsulated in a single term: attractiveness. We acknowledged this in 2021 and maintain our position - retrofuturism is a significant design influence in contemporary watchmaking, arguably more than ever. Regardless of the 40mm time-only model or the smaller 35mm variety; the quartz introduction or the automatic chronograph; and now the new vibrant editions, at least one PRX appears to be on everyone's acquisition list. Likely multiple, if we are being candid, and this is where the new dial possibilities are relevant. There are six watches: three 40mm automatic models, one 35mm automatic model, and two 35mm quartz PRX variants, featuring dials that range from gradient blue to brushed pink. Refer to the accompanying images of the authentic watches for better clarity than the descriptions provide.

To restate and emphasize our 2021 statement, the term "to-buy list" refers to the unusual intersection of collectors and individuals seeking quality everyday timepieces. The dimensions are suitable for everyday use, unless your wrist is exceptionally large; in that case, the 13.5mm thick PRX Automatic Chronograph may be appropriate—also consider the PR516 manual-winder discussed later in this article.

The integrated band is crucial as the watch's fit is fully contingent upon it. The nearly absent lugs of this approximately barrel-shaped case guarantee an excellent fit, even when required to fit beneath your sleeve. However, the exceptionally form-fitting sleeves will pose a challenge, rendering the smaller quartz model (measuring as little as 9.6mm compared to up to 11.2mm for the automatic) a more rational choice. The sapphire crystal is uniformly flat on both the top and bottom, ensuring precise thickness measurement. This is a complete watch design, as previously stated, and it possesses sporty implications. Tissot explicitly acknowledges this in the designation PRX, which signifies Precise, Robust, and water-resistant up to 100 meters (X denotes 10 bar, a unit of pressure measurement). Notwithstanding, PRX is an intriguing moniker.

Future Tense

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 models featuring updated dials

The PRX not only presents a novel perspective on Tissot but also unveils previously overlooked segments of the brand's history. When Tissot commenced utilizing automatic movements featuring silicon balance springs developed by Swatch Group, we were quite enthused. In 2018, although these technically sophisticated mechanical components were predominantly utilized by Omega, Blancpain, and Breguet, we never considered a balancing spring to signify anything as high-end. Ultimately, no one will observe this, nor will they acknowledge it even if they do. Indeed, including the individual adorned with it. The watch is what was significant and continues to be significant.

In 2018, the Tissot Ballade was an attractive timepiece available for under USD 1,000. The market appeared increasingly doubtful, particularly in light of the needed price escalation. We were certain that interest in Tissot's automatic timepieces extended beyond the fundamental ETA models. Note that Tissot produces gold wristwatches and pocket watches, and its history is characterized by a commitment to innovation for a broad audience. This is the authentic inception of the narrative surrounding the Tissot PRX.

We will now examine the direct origins of the PRX in general. Tissot asserts that the present model draws inspiration from a Seastar watch from 1978, however it might also be associated with the PR516 models from the early 1970s. To obtain the official viewpoint on the PRX and its significance in Tissot's history, we consulted Dolla directly. “Given that the PRX is a model first introduced in 1978, our aim was to revitalize this piece to align with contemporary vintage trends.” It demonstrates Tissot's commitment to its heritage while yet adapting to contemporary trends. In contemporary times, emerging difficulties inherently necessitate novel tactics; nonetheless, our background and history remain unchanged.

PRX Grendizer

Upon the announcement of the Tissot partnership with the iconic manga and anime UFO Robot Grendizer, we were incredulous. This undoubtedly represents a first for Tissot and potentially the inaugural partnership between a Swiss watchmaker and the writers of a Japanese comic book, known as manga. We were enthusiastic about this, however conflicted over its absence on the cover; the narrative is substantial, but for sheer horological content, the Forged Carbon model is the appropriate selection. However, given that watch receives attention in other contexts, we allocate additional time to the Tissot PRX Grendizer.

This PRX Grendizer model may signify further cross-cultural endeavors by Tissot. The choice to adopt the PRX model, a concept rooted in the 1970s, alongside a manga that gained popularity in Switzerland at that era, is potentially significant. It likely influenced the childhood experiences of several prominent executives in the watch industry, notably Max Busser, who is the most renowned and publicly recognized among them. Indeed, it was the inaugural MB&F timepiece that introduced Grendizer to the consciousness of editors, as Busser articulated how his boyhood fascinations were fueling his creativity. It appears that Dolla was also an admirer during childhood. Over two decades later, a significant entity in Swiss horology – affiliated with the greatest conglomerate of watchmakers globally – is adopting Grendizer coinciding with the premiere of the series remake, Grendizer U.

In that regard, the manga warrants a little introduction of its own. Conceived by the progenitor of the super robot genre, Go Nagai, the narrative revolves around an extraterrestrial prince who escapes the annihilation of his planet with his super robot, Grendizer. The prince and his robot companion seek refuge on Earth, where they must protect the planet against the same adversary who destroyed his homeland. The dial features the original Japanese title of the series: UFOロボ グレンダイザー, as a tribute.

The editorial staff's perspective is that Grendizer serves as a potent emblem, even for individuals lacking familiarity with the manga realm. The depiction of Grendizer, imprinted on the azure dial of the PRX UFO Robot Grendizer, is captivating. You need not rely just on our assertion—merely observe it and envision it under subdued lighting, when the yellow SuperLuminova enables the robot's bust to emanate a luminous glow. In this scenario, you will observe that the hands and markers of the watch, likewise coated with Super-Luminova, emit a distinct hue (blue). This was undoubtedly executed for clarity, however it imparts a vibrant essence to the watch, evoking a certain perspective of neon-lit Tokyo. Lastly, observe that the second hand, featuring the Harken symbol, is not treated with Super-Luminova.

PR516

The second and last timepiece we will discuss is the PR516, a chronograph that we have had the opportunity to evaluate since its introduction earlier this year. This chronograph is noteworthy by any standard, considering it is a manual-winder. We were rendered dumbfounded upon discovering this exceptional piece from Tissot, which also has the newly created Valjoux A05.291 movement. Tissot states it is based on the widely recognized 7753 caliber, familiar to many enthusiasts. This action was so noteworthy that Tissot issued a technical news release, which is itself a considerable occurrence. It is important to note that typically only the most traditional watchmakers produce manual-winding chronographs, doing so to pay homage to the heritage of exquisite horology.

A manual-winder from Tissot was certainly unexpected, and it should be noted that there is a lack of thorough hand-finishing visible through the show caseback. The crucial aspect is that Tissot believes there is a need for this type of watch. Tissot's website prominently features chronographs, with the PR516 being the sole model categorized as "mechanical." If an aficionado discovers this watch while searching for a PRX, they will undoubtedly be pleasantly surprised; observing a manual chronograph movement in operation is always enjoyable, unobstructed by a rotor. Priced at SGD 2,620, the PR516 presents a very compelling value proposition. Tissot is undoubtedly utilizing the manufacturing prowess of Swatch Group to provide a chronograph with a power reserve of up to 68 hours and an antimagnetic escapement that incorporates precise laser regulating. It is sufficient to state that nothing of this nature is available at this price level.

Photography by ching@greenplasticsoldiers

Styling by Gregory Woo