New Beginnings: Lionel A Marca Discusses His New Position at Breguet
- Nicole Ng
- Dec 27, 2022
- 5 min read
Lionel A Marca, after 30 years with the Swatch Group, assumes the role of CEO at Breguet. He discusses with us the decision to join the esteemed maison and outlines future intentions.
Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, the product creation executive director at Bvlgari, exemplifies an aesthete, adept in lateral thinking and having designed an extensive array of products, including stunning automobiles, elegant furniture, and the innovative, record-setting Bvlgari Octo Finissimo watch collection. During his recent visit to Singapore for the fourth edition of LVMH Watch Week, we engaged him in a discussion regarding the brand's unique stylistic hallmark, the importance of fostering creativity, and the essence of effective design.
You have been affiliated with the Swatch Group for over 20 years, primarily at Blancpain. What was the process that led to your appointment as CEO of Breguet?
It occurred quite organically. After careful consideration among the Hayek family and the management team, I deemed it prudent to propose my candidacy for the CEO post at Breguet. Throughout my tenure at the Swatch Group, I engaged with several critical areas, including development, production, operations, and marketing, which provided me with a comprehensive understanding of a brand's overall requirements. I am deeply honored by the confidence bestowed upon me by the Hayek family. Assuming leadership of a brand with such a legacy is a matter of pride.
What were your perceptions of Breguet before to and subsequent to joining the brand?
I was astonished by the technology implemented in the manufacturing process and the extensive knowledge available. Nicolas G. Hayek placed significant importance on these features, emphasizing the reinforcement of this expertise upon Breguet's acquisition by the Swatch Group in 1999. This program was subsequently pursued by Marc A. Hayek upon his assumption of the directorship. That was likewise of significant importance to him. Furthermore, I was moved by the fervor exhibited by all the teams. I am confident that with these assets, we will successfully elevate the brand for its 250th anniversary.
What was your initial agenda upon assuming leadership?
It was imperative for me to comprehend the strengths and weaknesses of each area. Consequently, I dedicated time to each workshop. This enabled me to recalibrate specific processes and identify the most effective alternatives to enhance efficiency.
What are the primary challenges confronting Breguet currently?
In my view, the fundamental task in watchmaking is to perpetually astonish. Indeed, the competition is fierce, and innovations proliferate, necessitating a commitment to both avant-garde approaches and the pursuit of excellence. The development of new complications and technology may need several years. It is essential to recognize that Breguet is not a fashion brand that proliferates releases. It is imperative for us to uphold the standards of rigor and excellence that have established the brand's reputation. Consequently, we exclusively launch our new items when they meet the standards of our Haute Horlogerie production.
Breguet possesses a remarkable history, with creator Abraham Louis Breguet credited for numerous horological innovations. What do you consider to be the brand's most exquisite creations in recent years?
Indubitably the emblematic and distinguishing Queen of Naples. It signifies sophistication and grace. Furthermore, each piece has a remarkable level of craftsmanship and precision. I am also considering the Tradition line that I wear and absolutely appreciate. This collection enables you to appreciate its symmetrical and architectural design on both the dial and caseback sides. This piece is inspired by the precision and subscription timepieces crafted by our founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet. I really value the Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversary that was launched last year. It integrates the brand's codes and subtly alludes to the invention of the tourbillon by Abraham-Louis Breguet.
Breguet, a 246-year-old brand, was established by an innovator and pioneer dedicated to revolutionizing the art of watchmaking. Do you regard the equilibrium between innovation and tradition as a crucial element in maintaining a brand like Breguet?
Certainly! Breguet must consistently pursue perfection in every facet of a watch, including its complexities, materials, and design.
What was a significant achievement for Breguet in 2022?
The Marine Hora Mundi. It integrates technological expertise with aesthetic appeal. It is an instantaneous memory GMT displayed on a two-dimensional global map. The dial is adjusted with various plates to create this dimensional illusion. One of them, the sapphire variant, measures 0.4 mm. It consists of metallized meridians. This operation necessitated numerous tests before we could assure impeccable quality.
What is your opinion on the current trend of sports watches? Will Breguet introduce a Type XX project?
Similar to fashion, watchmaking exhibits cyclical trends. While it is beneficial for specific trends to emerge at various times, I believe that individuals should have the opportunity to discover the watch style that best represents their identity. A clock has become a crucial item for distinguishing oneself and showcasing personal flair. The Marine line at Breguet showcases a sporty aesthetic. The market response has been highly favorable, and our titanium variant has achieved significant success. In response to your inquiry on Type XX, I would assert that one of my responsibilities is to contemplate the current collections and their progression. Undoubtedly, the Type XX represents one of these lines of reasoning. Something to pursue!
Despite the watch industry's resilience during the epidemic, we now face a perilous scenario characterized by escalating prices, an anticipated downturn, and interrupted supply chains. What is Breguet's stance on this matter?
I will be candid: similar to the entire watch business, we are experiencing the repercussions of the epidemic and are seeking optimal methods to maintain the availability of our models at retail outlets. We strive to react as accurately as possible to requests. Nonetheless, we continue to observe considerable enthusiasm for our timepieces, which is a highly positive indication.
Breguet has declared a collaboration with Frieze. What is the rationale behind this partnership? What is your objective?
The brand is privileged to possess a profound heritage that connects it to several realms, including art. Abraham-Louis Breguet inspired numerous artists, including writers and painters. Furthermore, the windows of the founder's workshops, situated at Quai de l’Horloge, faced the Louvre. He maintained a close relationship with the institution and its director, Dominique Vivant Denon, and collaborated on numerous cultural events. Consequently, it is entirely logical that the brand perpetuated its legacy in the arts. At the behest of Nicolas G. Hayek, Breguet endorsed the remodeling of the Louis XIV to Louis XVI chambers at the Louvre. Currently, the brand collaborates with several organizations engaged in the arts, including Carnegie Hall in New York and Teatro Real in Madrid, as well as the international art fair Frieze, which occurs in Seoul, New York, Los Angeles, and London. In this relationship, we aimed to honor an artist's work by granting them the freedom to present an ephemeral artwork that reflects their vision of Breguet. At every event, a novel creation is generated. This year's selection is the artist Pablo Bronstein, who is fervently interested in the 18th century.
It is a remarkable coincidence to note that our brand was established in 1775. During his visit to our museum in Paris, he was captivated by the Breguet brand and the innovative creations of Abraham-Louis Breguet. During the New York and Seoul fairs, we had a really favorable response from visitors who encountered our booth adorned with the artist's creations. This type of event enables us to identify our customers while also providing the opportunity to introduce ourselves to a new clientele that appreciates luxury and art. Art is appreciated not only via the creations of artists but also through the artistic designs of wristwatches. At Frieze New York, a guillocheur demonstrated and tested guillochage for guests. We were notably surprised by the young generations' curiosity about this art and their genuine desire to comprehend the intricacies of watch design. This constitutes a significant triumph.
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