Laurent Lecamp, Managing Director of Montblanc, on the Creation of Tangible Timepieces

Montblanc Laurent Lecamp, Managing Director of the Watch Division, discusses the cultivation of desire. He has delineated three pillars, each present in every new Montblanc watch this year.

Image: Montblanc

The late Rolf Schnyder urged me to recognize that not all individuals engaged in watchmaking do it out of passion or for financial gain. At times, it merely serves as a means of financial sustenance, akin to numerous other occupations. He did not elaborate on the issue, yet it has remained with me throughout the years. I am cognizant of my biases while interacting with watchmakers and industry executives. Laurent Lecamp, Montblanc’s watchmaking director, possesses a profound enthusiasm for the narrative elements of horology and is astounded by the craftsmanship of watchmakers. Not only the outcomes, exemplified by the painstakingly crafted movements from the Minerva manufacture, but also the process of finishing itself. The practice of finissage, in other terms.

The evidence is observable in the movie when Lecamp discusses the glacial dials of the Iced Sea Automatic. Although it is not fully captured on camera, his eyes radiate genuine genuineness. This became more apparent in person, as the WOW team realized during our encounter with him at Watches and Wonders Geneva. The 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date, a standout from the exposition, is particularly noteworthy as the supplier proposed the unique procedure for crafting the dial, and Lecamp's astonishment at the thirty stages involved in producing a single dial is evident.

Image: Montblanc

Marketing is Lecamp's expertise, and he acknowledges the significant narrative possibilities inherent in technical minutiae and the nuances of hand-finishing. This does not change the fact that he personally finds it exhilarating. This is not unexpected, considering that Lecamp was recognized by collectors as a co-founder of the independent watchmaker Cyrus. He stated that his entrepreneurial mentality was attracted to the opportunities at Montblanc, where he would have comparable autonomy inside a structured environment.

Lecamp sought structure when he departed from Cyrus, divesting his shares to assume a management role at retailer Carl F. Bucherer, which possesses its own watchmaking division. He served as a board member until 2020 and held the position of Executive Vice-President of Sales, concurrently acting as CEO of the Japan division. He departed that year, and we were introduced to him virtually in 2021 when Montblanc announced his appointment as the head of the watchmaking section.

Image: Montblanc

Congratulations on the 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date Given all the factors involved, we were astonished to see that is priced under €3,000 (S$4,700 with bracelet). What method did you employ to achieve this?

Our intention was to astonish you, and we accomplished it!

You accomplished it! It aligns effectively with the three themes you referenced in your video earlier this year and reiterated during the speech.

Differentiation, narrative construction, and exceptional perceived worth. I can unequivocally assert that each watch we introduce will incorporate these three components. If a watch lacks these features, we shall not proceed.

The Iced Sea successfully achieves its design, which is noteworthy given that it is an ISO 6425 steel dive watch including a bracelet.

Outstanding observation! Consider the rationale behind emulating others in one's actions. Wearing the brand with the crown would alter the situation, although we must be imaginative to distinguish ourselves. It must be distinct to enhance the reputation of Montblanc. You will not encounter another watch comparable to the Iced Sea. Featuring extensive narrative elements, a distinctive dial, and an attractive price point. The bracelet, which is also novel, features an interchangeable mechanism. Additionally, we provide a soft travel pouch constructed entirely from recyclable materials. No other brand offers a watch comparable to the Iced Sea with its complete array of functions!

Image: Montblanc

The dial is amazing. Elucidate further about the subject.

We conceived the notion to undertake a project pertaining to Mont Blanc, the peak, and its six glaciers. One of such glaciers is named Mer de Glace, meaning Iced Sea.

Is this the source of inspiration for the watch's name? Did you approach the issue of launching a diving watch, considering that neither Montblanc nor Minerva had previously produced such timepieces?

Indeed, we aimed for authenticity in creating a diving watch that genuinely embodies Montblanc, rather than merely producing a derivative item. The dial illustrates our narrative, as we visited the glacier in the mountains and captured photographs of it. We aimed to incorporate Mont Blanc onto the dial in an innovative manner.

Does this pertain to the unique technique you presented?

It was not me nor us... The dial maker recommended the gratté-boisé technique. Upon viewing the images of the glacier, I desired this for the dial as it represented the depth and three-dimensionality of the glacier. We conversed with our supplier, who remarked, “You’re insane, Laurent!” The dial would be very thick, rendering it unfeasible. We conducted several experiments, and the supplier recommended the gratté-boisé to achieve the desired effect. It was an obsolete technology that had fallen into disuse, and we revived it for the Iced Sea. Thirty manual processes are necessary to produce a single dial. Machining is absent. It is really costly, I assure you.

Image: Montblanc

Nonetheless, you successfully presented this watch at an affordable price.

We aimed to achieve an unparalleled perceived value. This is of paramount significance. I believe the customer will not request a discount; they will solely inquire about the watch. No other dive watch on the market features a dial like this at the recommended price. Nil. The colors we possess are not fashionable; they are the authentic hues observed in glaciers. There exists blue, green, and black. Had we discovered alternative colors, we would have chosen them.

Furthermore, there exists the inscription on the caseback...

Regarding the diver beneath the ice, affirmative. It possesses a three-dimensional quality that is tangible. There appears to be no dive watch on the market that possesses a narrative as compelling as the Iced Sea, which includes ISO 6425 certification and features a highly intricate dial.

I will now provide information regarding the name — the Iced Sea. A client contacted us inquiring about the Iced Tea watch, albeit it is uncertain whether they are a collector or a retail partner. We inquired if the reference was to the Iced Sea, to which the client clarified it was, in fact, the Iced Tea. This indicates that individuals are adopting the name of our watch and manipulating it, similar to the practices observed within the collector community about some favored pieces. We are enamored with it.

Your sense of humor regarding the situation is commendable! Why did you choose to utilize the same dial for the 0 Oxygen?

The dial is not identical! We employ a completely different technique for this purpose. This marks the inaugural instance of the Geospheres being shown in conjunction with a chronograph. The caseback displays the visage of Everest, which was ascended by Messner and subsequently by Nimsdai, both without supplementary oxygen.

Image: Montblanc

This is the renowned mountaineer you are collaborating with, Nimsdai Purja. The one that ascended all 14 of the world's peaks exceeding 8,000 meters in a duration of six months and six days?

Affirmative! He is very remarkable. He surpassed the previous record by eight years! A show detailing his travels, titled "14 Peaks," is available on Netflix and has become a significant success for the company. Commonly referred to as Nirmal or Nims, he attended the Watches & Wonders event in Geneva, where he candidly discussed his charity initiatives.

What initiated this situation?

Reinhold Messner, the mountaineer and adventurer associated with Montblanc since 2020, was the first to ascend Everest without supplemental oxygen in 1978 and informed us about Nimsdai. We inquired whether Messner would do another ascent without supplemental oxygen, but he declined due to his age (77 years). Instead, he informed us about the individual he believed capable of accomplishing it, Nimsdai. We made contact, and he confirmed his intention to attempt to summit Everest without supplemental oxygen. He will undertake the endeavor later this year [he achieved it on May 15], utilizing the same route as Messner, which is laser-engraved on the caseback. We informed him, Nimsdai, that when ascending the mountain without supplemental oxygen, his watch will similarly function without oxygen on his wrist. This is the narrative of the 0 Oxygen.

Let us conclude this from Minerva's perspective. This year, we observe the emergence of a fluted bezel. Elucidate on the subject.

Upon joining Montblanc, my initial action was to dedicate time to our manufacturing facilities in Le Locle and Villeret. I sought to delve into the history, particularly that of Minerva in Villeret. It was intriguing to understand how the artisans at Villeret employ old techniques and skills, and I continue to explore and uncover new information in the archives. Minerva pioneered the fluted bezel in 1927 and introduced its inaugural timepiece featuring a fluted rotating exterior bezel in 1939. I assert that the 1927 model was the inaugural timepiece in watchmaking – I emphasize this assertion.

This year, I have resolved to incorporate a bidirectional spinning fluted bezel into Minerva watches, ensuring that every new timepiece from Minerva features this bezel. The Red Arrow LE88 features a white gold bezel adorned with a red arrow, symbolizing the arrow shape that is a defining trait of Minerva. Remember that Montblanc produces traditional timepieces, so our efforts must adhere to a classical aesthetic.