Investigating Gem-Encrusted Timepieces with Bulgari's Antoine Pin

Bulgari is establishing a luxurious precedent in horology. Managing Director of the Watchmaking Division, Antoine Pin, outlines his strategic intentions.

While watch collectors rarely regard jewelry with the same reverence as watches, this may reflect a form of bias. Although numerous observers and experts recognize that watches function as jewelry for men, this perspective is sometimes undermined by the belief that gem-set watches are inherently less intriguing than their steel counterparts. One need just consult the secondary market for validation of this assertion. The fundamental reality contradicts this assertion, and the so-called 'rainbow' type of gem-encrusted clock derides such ideas. Once more, consult the secondary market for validation, assuming you can locate 'rainbow' gem-set models available for purchase at all. For a jeweler and watchmaker like Bulgari, this appears to be an opportune moment to garner unforeseen benefits.

During LVMH Watch Week, Antoine Pin, Managing Director of Bulgari’s Watchmaking Division, announced that the brand is reverting to its origins as a Roman jeweller, indicating that all watches are inside the jewelry category, including a significant innovation with the legendary Serpenti line of watches. This innovation is far more remarkable than the majority of bands introduced by watch brands, which mostly rely on suppliers. Bulgari, as a jeweller, possesses the capability to produce its own creations.

Pin commenced his career in horology and jewelry with the LVMH subsidiary TAG Heuer in 1994 as a junior sales manager for DFS and the Middle East; he then gained extensive knowledge of jewelry while working with the French brand Boucheron in 1998. Pin joined LVMH in 2002, where he cultivated his knowledge in the Asian market through roles as General Manager for TAG Heuer in Japan and South Korea, before assuming leadership of Greater China and Australia for Bulgari in 2014. Pin joined Bulgari at the behest of CEO Jean-Christophe Babin, with whom he collaborated at TAG Heuer. He is deeply interested in the individuals that operate behind the scenes and leads development programs for personnel.

During our conversation at the LVMH Watch Week in Singapore, Pin elucidated the principal collections launching at the watch market and articulated Bulgari's philosophy on providing craftspeople with greater opportunities for growth and development.

Prior to discussing the watches, please elaborate on how you navigate the distinct realms of horology and jewelry.

Allegra adorned with golden sapphires

It is entirely natural. Most jewellers sell watches as an extension of their product range, so, working in such a company exposes you to the realm of jewellery, even if your focus is on watches. Occasionally, you transition between different fields. It has occurred multiple times with me. At Boucheron, I served as the marketing director for the watch division prior to transitioning to the jewellery division. Subsequently, I returned to the horology sector at TAG Heuer, where I operated not from the headquarters but in various markets, including England and Japan. At Bulgari, I was once more leading a market, not from headquarters, hence I was again immersed in both realms of watches and jewelry. You gain insight into the distinct characteristics of the two universes, as they are markedly dissimilar. Numerous similarities exist, although significant variances also prevail, resulting in a distinctive experience. The clash between the realms of horology and jewelry elucidates the distinct main differences between them.

We mention this because we recognize that Bulgari has a training or upskilling initiative to provide artisans with enhanced job options. Please provide information regarding this matter.

Individuals are the core of our products, and we are honoring their creativity and ingenuity. This implies that to honor people, one must first attend to their needs and accord them the respect they merit. When I discuss the accolades we win, I consistently acknowledge the individuals responsible for the watches, as I am not the creator of them! I am the individual who likely engages the least with the product itself, thus I receive accolades on their behalf. In my view, there are no significant or insignificant roles at Bulgari, and there is an additional element related to this that pertains to your inquiry.

Individuals often ponder the question: what will be my subsequent course of action? Will I be engaged in the same activities throughout my career? Will you be engaged in selling jewellery in a boutique from the commencement to the conclusion of your profession if you begin as a salesperson? It is plausible. How do you perceive a sense of accomplishment, indicating that you have enhanced, advanced, and attained a different status? Without fostering a sense of progression, one experiences boredom; so, it is essential to engage individuals by demonstrating our commitment to their development. Regardless of the profession they pursue.

Regarding polishing, as you noted, one may truly cultivate skills in this area – it is a significant skill to refine the 110 aspects of the Bulgari Octo! I assure you that few individuals has the capability to perform this job, as it requires years of dedication to cultivate these skills. After a decade of this work and advancement, one could inquire, 'What lies ahead?' We do not wish to compel individuals who do not possess this inquiry. If you desire a change without relinquishing your accomplishments, this is our objective to assist you with. You are a polisher, but you might consider pursuing anglage, a decorative technique for which few specialists exist in the trade, with only manuals available. Our responsibility, in terms of offering career resources to employees, is to provide such opportunities and establish these connections.

Proceeding to the new timepieces for 2023! Describe what appears to be a varied assortment.

A superb depiction of the creation process of the Serpenti Tubogas Infinity

This year's new items emphasize various design and tactile features, together with the techniques that underpin the development and creativity of new creations. An essential consideration is how we manage to astonish you, and I anticipate that we occasionally succeed in doing so!

We are discussing our identity in our recent advertising campaign, "Unexpected Wonders," and we hope to have led you to an unforeseen destination. The situation is intricate, as technological advancement facilitates the exploration of new domains. For instance, our innovative method for Tubogas, namely the 2023 Serpenti Tubogas Infinity, is a departure from the conventional Tubogas design for the first time in its history. This new method enables the incorporation of gemstones onto the bracelet, a feat that was before unattainable.

It is termed Infinity for two reasons: it allows for limitless designs because to the customizable nature of the bracelet, and it embodies 178 distinct aesthetic qualities. The bracelet possesses a philosophical aspect, as its sensation evokes the experience of believing one has concluded a book, only to uncover a new chapter.

What is the significance of the Serpenti to Bulgari? Do you perceive any potential in this design for men?

Serpenti is of paramount significance! This is our inaugural collection, rendering it the most significant. We launched it, known as the Tubogas, in the early 1940s. The Serpenti design was introduced thereafter; yet, the motif remains identifiable and emblematic of our character as a jeweler. Indeed, it is our premier line, and in response to your inquiry regarding Serpenti and males, I must inform you that currently, there is no client demand for guys to get a Serpenti watch. However, we are receiving an increasing number of inquiries from the press regarding its potentiality. We perceive potential opportunities and regard this as a problem; there may be other solutions that could be intriguing, yet our inquiry is, 'What is the Bulgari approach to confronting this challenge?' Please be patient, as this is a lengthy procedure.

How does Bulgari maintain the wearability of its timepieces while simultaneously ensuring their forms remain intriguing?

Divas' Dream Mosaica

Primarily, wearability is essential for a proficient goldsmith. Based on my previous expertise, wearability is vital for jewellery designers, especially concerning neck adornments such as necklaces, which necessitate consideration of their weight. I have consistently been pleased by the tailored approach to those pieces. The Serpenti presents a challenge due to its singular iconic shape, produced in enormous quantities, necessitating the creation of several sizes to enhance wearability. We have a range of sizes, from the smallest, comparable to a standard bracelet, to larger options featuring up to seven spirals. This variability complicates matters, as one would not anticipate such variable sizes for a watch, yet this is our reality.

The issue of miniature timepieces arises, and we indeed manufacture miniature watches. This discussion pertains to the folding buckle, typically employed in women's timepieces due to its perceived ease. Certain Allegra watches, introduced at LVMH Watch Week, include pin buckles for enhanced functionality.

This also pertains to the design of the movement, as well as the choice between quartz and mechanical options.

Every action has a purpose, notably a robust justification for our strategic approach to miniaturization. Each caliber we are focusing on presents a challenge to our design team, which they are addressing effectively. For instance, in the creation of the Piccolissimo manual-winding movement, we produced the smallest calibre to align with jewellery watches, so enhancing wearability.

Due to the thinness of the Octo, we are compelled to design the calibre larger, as the movement's architecture promotes a horizontal arrangement of components instead of vertical stacking.

Today, we are offering an icon, defined by the distinct shape and form of the Octo, which is characterized by its uniqueness. We aspire to create a smaller diameter version; however, it is currently unfeasible. This presents a dilemma, as many ladies wear the Octo, and it may be excessively large.

The Octo's shape and size are inherent characteristics, and it is essential to acknowledge this; yet, the primary intention behind the design of Octo watches was to embody elegance rather than bulkiness. The caliber was engineered for this purpose, ensuring the watch is both aesthetically pleasing and pleasant to wear. Does this imply that we will not attempt to handle the difficulty of the diameter in the future? It is likely that we will.