Engaging in conversation with Alexander Gutierrez, CEO of Lang & Heyne, and watchmaker Jens Schneider.
- Elliot Tan
- May 2
- 4 min read
CEO Alexander Gutierrez and watchmaker Jens Schneider disclose how Lang & Heyne challenges the trend of mass production through their meticulously handcrafted timepieces.
In an era characterized by the mass production of stainless steel watches using automated machinery, the independent watchmaker Lang & Heyne stands as a distinctive exception. Their confidential information? Meticulously constructing each timepiece by hand. The German watchmaker Jens Schneider, led by CEO Alexander Gutierrez, remains dedicated to traditional craftsmanship and vintage design.
What is required to integrate tradition with modernity and to harmonize heritage with innovation? We engage with Gutierrez and Schneider to explore the essence of Lang & Heyne, the difficulties of establishing a distinct identity in a saturated market, and the exquisite craftsmanship inherent in each clock.
Who is the target audience for Lange & Heyne?
ALEXANDER GUTIERREZ: You belong to our target demographic if you value exquisite craftsmanship, be it in bespoke automobiles such as Morgan or Pagani, or in gourmet cuisine and upscale dining experiences. Our clientele comprises discerning individuals who are established, not ostentatious. They value their possessions for personal benefit. If you take pleasure in observing the mechanics of a watch and manually winding it, you may be one of our intended audiences.
What have been the most substantial hurdles you encountered as CEO, and how did you surmount them?
ALEXANDER: The primary problem has been articulating the essence of Lang & Heyne, a relatively nascent brand at merely 21 years of age. In contrast to established businesses, we lack a lengthy history or endorsements from celebrities. Our emphasis is on the product, highlighting superior craftsmanship and in-house manufacturing. We honor our Saxonian ancestry by naming our timepieces after Saxonian rulers instead of employing reference numbers. Integrating traditional watchmaking with modern techniques, like as handcrafting and advanced machinery, has been essential. Integrating all elements to ultimately establish a great organization is, in my opinion, the primary challenge.
In light of the dominance of modern watch designs, what motivates Lang & Heyne to maintain their dedication to vintage design features?
ALEXANDER: We aim to preserve our Saxonian roots and heritage, which is why we incorporate historical design aspects. Our methodology emphasizes elegance and tradition over ostentatious, intricate elements. We emphasize workmanship, particularly the artisanal labor performed by hand, which is fundamental to our brand's character. This fusion of classic aesthetics with a modern methodology distinguishes us. The Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition exemplifies this fusion by integrating contemporary materials such as porcelain while preserving a traditional look.
What are the prevailing trends in the luxury watch market, and how is Lang & Heyne strategizing to maintain a competitive edge?
ALEXANDER: The prevailing trend in the luxury watch market is a transition towards independent watchmakers and distinctive, niche offerings. While I do not intend to diminish the significance of major brands, collectors and fans are progressively pursuing unique and exceptional items. Lange & Heyne emphasizes artisanal craftsmanship and customization, enabling clients to personalize elements such as hands, dial colors, and materials. This customized approach distinguishes us from larger businesses that frequently cannot provide such tailored solutions. By addressing these specialized demands, Lange & Heyne is emerging as a prominent entity in the independent sector.
The Watchmaker
Could you elaborate on your creative methodology while conceptualizing a new timepiece?
JENS SCHNEIDER: A Lang & Heyne timepiece ought to be suitable for daily usage. We aim to create watches that are actively utilized rather being relegated to storage. Reading the time should be effortless, and winding should be uncomplicated. That serves as my initial reference. Subsequently, I contemplate the watch's attributes. The subsequent phase involves collecting insights from my memory—elements I have observed in historical timepieces and technical innovations—and integrating them with my own concepts. It is impossible to conceive an entirely novel watch; the focus lies in synthesizing innovative combinations of established components from history with contemporary technologies or materials.
Subsequently, I produce a basic illustration of the gear train. The circles' dimensions dictate the accurate placement of the hands on the dial. The concluding phase involves creating a 3D design of the watch on the computer. This is challenging due to the necessity of evaluating the interconnections among all components. Altering one component necessitates consideration of its impact on the others. This is the procedure we adhere to.
How do you reconcile beauty with practicality in the design of a new watch?
JENS: A visually appealing watch devoid of functionality lacks true aesthetic value. The function is paramount. A little balancing wheel in the corner lacks aesthetic appeal due to its poor functionality. The emphasis lies in the synergy: functionality must prevail, while aesthetics should complement the function.
What methods do you employ to amalgamate contemporary technology with classical watchmaking practices?
JENS: It is essential to possess expertise in materials. Utilizing a diamond tool necessitates a synthesis of adept expertise and contemporary materials. We utilize contemporary machinery. Today, I utilize Computer Numerical Control (CNC) systems and machinery to fabricate the basic components. The hands of the Louis watch possess a conventional shape, attained through hand engraving subsequent to laser cutting of the raw material.
What is your collaborative process on a project from inception to finalization?
JENS: We typically commence with a brainstorming session, regardless of whether the idea originates from a consumer, a specific request, or an internal concept. We evaluate the feasibility of the concept, taking into account both artistic and practical dimensions, as a watchmaker possesses several ideas, although not all can be actualized. We must account for economic or capacity limitations, thereby prioritizing according to significance and resource availability.
ALEXANDER: We frequently engage in bespoke projects, whether for substantial orders from organizations such as SHH or individual commissions for private clients. The procedure entails comprehensive deliberations regarding design, complexities, and production logistics. For example, when Sincere Haute Horlogerie solicits a particular quantity of timepieces, we evaluate our capacity to fulfill that volume and the exact specifications. Throughout the project, there is ongoing discussion to enhance the design and ensure it corresponds with our capabilities and the client's expectations. The success of earlier models, such as the first and second Georg, instilled faith in the design's allure and directed the project from inception to fruition.
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