Chanel Acquires Stake in MB&F, Signaling a New Era in Luxury Horology

Chanel's 25 percent equity in MB&F underscores a strategic transformation in Swiss horology, merging opulence with autonomous creativity.

Chanel's acquisition of a 25 percent equity investment in the independent watchmaker MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends, established in 2005) signifies an ongoing trend in Swiss horology. This concerns neither large brands encroaching upon smaller ones nor the development of collective identities and strategies. Rather, it pertains to ensuring a future of autonomy. Chanel refers to its investment as "strategic," undoubtedly considering the long-term perspective. Chanel, a renowned luxury brand, refers to MB&F as a “high-end creative watchmaker,” aptly recognizing the status the watchmaking brand has attained. Brand creator Max Büsser consistently emphasized that the Friends were the watchmakers, while his contributions focused on the creative and financial aspects. We assert with confidence that this Chanel maneuver was organized by Büsser, likely analogous to how he curates the titular Friends while conceptualizing a new timepiece.

MB&F’S Horological Machine 11, nicknamed the “Architect”.

Upon receiving the news, we recalled that Chanel had been integral to the narrative from the first. Casemaker GF Chatelain was among the initial Friends, crafting cases and buckles for MB&F. In 1993, Chanel acquired GF Chatelain, which remains integral to MB&F's production, primarily in buckles, as stated by MB&F. The historical context is evident, and Chanel's practice of investing in small independent brands like Romain Gauthier (2011) and FP Journe (2018) renders this narrative quite appealing. The luxury brand has not encroached upon the autonomy of these watchmakers, and we do not anticipate any deviation at MB&F.

Maximilian Büsser

Undoubtedly, inquiries will persist regarding Büsser’s objectives; but, we can only convey what is known, aptly encapsulated in a statement from him, released during the press conference for this announcement. “In the current advantageous context and with our management team at its peak, it was our obligation to undertake this significant action to secure our long-term future – a logical progression for a company approaching its 20th anniversary next year.” The investment from Chanel will enable us to follow our own trajectory without expansion pressures, while also enhancing our operations through access to their extensive ecosystem and network of specialized suppliers as necessary.

The press release indicates that Büsser has a 60 percent controlling stake in MB&F, and his partner Serge Kriknoc possesses 15 percent ownership. Büsser and Kriknoc were the sole recognized stakeholders in the corporation; Kriknoc's share remains constant, prompting us to infer that Chanel's interest was derived from Büsser's. Chanel's history indicates that operations at MB&F will persist as normal, and we will accept Büsser's assertion that the company transcends being solely a means of maximizing profits. The cherished kinetic timepieces will continue to operate, akin to the watches of Romain Gauthier and FP Journe. Chanel is a significant shareholder in Bell & Ross, and the company's leaders have consistently asserted that the French corporation has never exerted pressure regarding growth. Büsser has consistently asserted that he did not desire bankers or investors involved due to the associated pressure for expansion, a topic he has explicitly addressed in the official statement.

Frédéric Grangié, President of Chanel Watches & Fine Jewellery

What is Chanel's perspective on this matter? Frédéric Grangié, President of Chanel Watches & Fine Jewellery, is featured in the news. “We are pleased to establish a strategic partnership with MB&F, who embody the same principles of independence, creativity, and excellence.” The news is integral to our long-term goal to sustain, enhance, and invest in specialized knowledge and experience, thereby reaffirming our status in high-end watchmaking.