CEO of Zenith, Julien Tornare, is Elevating the Brand to Prominence

Zenith CEO Julien Tornare discusses the elimination of gender classifications for its timepieces, sustainability initiatives, and digital transformation.

In an exclusive discussion with Men’s Folio and LUXUO during his visit to Singapore, Zenith CEO Julien Tornare discussed the progress Zenith has made since his appointment in 2017, the necessity of evolving as a contemporary watch manufacturer, and further topics.

Firstly, how delightful is it to return to Singapore since Zenith had the “A Star Through Time” exhibition here in 2019?

It is a great delight. I resided in Asia for seven years until 2017, when I departed to join Zenith in Switzerland, which evokes a profound sense of fulfillment. My admiration for Singapore is multifaceted, although for watch enthusiasts, the city-state's watch culture is arguably the most robust in Asia.

May 1, 2022, signifies your fifth year leading Zenith. What was a primary objective you established for the team upon your initial arrival, and how near are you to achieving it at present?

The first purpose was to rectify the brand, as Zenith was underperforming when I joined in 2017. In managing a firm, it must consistently expand and yield profits annually while maintaining a forward-looking growth strategy. The target was established. Between 2017 and 2019, we reestablished the foundational elements for marketing, product, strategy, and other areas.

At the conclusion of 2019, we commemorated the 50th anniversary of the El Primero, perceiving it as the inception of a promising era, particularly with our robust commencement in 2020 during the Dubai Watch Week, when we received unprecedented orders. Subsequently, Covid emerged. We have been addressing the situation and persistently striving to increase our market share. We have been among the most proactive brands in enhancing our e-commerce platform and innovating methods of online communication with our customers. We have been increasing market share to achieve a robust recovery in 2021.

The anticipated turnaround of Zenith was originally scheduled for 2020 but was delayed by a year due to Covid. In 2021, Zenith achieved a record year, with a three-digit turnover, double-digit profitability, and reestablishing itself as a robust and healthily developing brand.

Which obstacle was more formidable: revitalizing Zenith under Jean-Claude Biver's direction or managing it during the pandemic?

That is an excellent inquiry. I conducted thorough research prior to accepting the position, thus I was aware of the brand's strengths and shortcomings and the reasons for its underperformance. I was aware of the necessary direction, but I required time, which the LVMH group afforded me to go incrementally.

Covid-19 presented greater challenges due to its novelty and unpredictability; the duration and magnitude of its impact were uncertain. No one anticipated that we would have to cease production as we did. We encountered significant turbulence and had to swiftly assume effective management during the crisis. Navigating is effortless in tranquil waters; nevertheless, during a tempest, the true skill of the captain is shown. Gaining market share and strengthening the brand has been a tough yet rewarding endeavor.

Which endeavor, in your opinion, elevated Zenith during the past five years?

It is challenging to determine a singular focus due to the multitude of factors; nonetheless, the resurgence of Chronomaster is likely the most significant development, as the Defy collection was already in progress upon my arrival. The current facet of the brand was crucial, necessitating its revitalization. Nonetheless, the Chronomaster embodies the quintessence of Zenith. Zenith is widely recognized for the El Primero and its elevated frequency.

Zenith is widely recognized for its tricolor sub-dial. Achieving success like we did last year with the Chronomaster Original, Chronomaster Sport, and now the Chronomaster Open was crucial for me. Failure in these aspects would result in the overall failure of the project. We could not afford to fail, and I take great pride in that achievement.

Zenith is resuming its momentum from 2021 with impressive presentations during LVMH Watch Week and Watches & Wonders Geneva. How do you guarantee that your team sustains momentum without experiencing burnout?

Image: Zenith

It is essential to convey to your staff that success has been achieved. Attending LVMH Watch Week in January and subsequently Watches & Wonders Geneva required some effort. Having seen unprecedented success in 2021, we commemorated this achievement with the team, acknowledging the challenges we had previously faced by taking the opportunity to celebrate, reward, and express our gratitude to our colleagues appropriately.

We demonstrated that 2022 will be as busy as the forthcoming years, but this is advantageous rather than detrimental. The individuals exhibited increasing motivation, which is paramount. I endeavor to convey my energy and passion to my workers, which I believe they value.

We also provide an opportunity for kids to be entrepreneurial, which is something I engage in daily.

Zenith undertook a decisive action to eliminate gender classifications for its timepieces. Has there been a significant alteration in client demographics after that choice was implemented?

It is premature to evaluate, given it was implemented last winter; yet, I would assert that it is a rational progression for a company aspiring to remain modern. In the 21st century, as we introduce contemporary items, it is inappropriate to designate this watch as exclusively for males or females. It is illogical. We produce exquisite watches in various sizes, with some featuring a feminine aesthetic and others a macho design. Men can exhibit feminine qualities, and women can embody masculine traits.

We inhabit a contemporary society that should eschew gender-based distinctions, as such divisions belong to a bygone era. I consistently utilize automobiles as an illustration. Three decades ago, we might hear that certain cars were designated for males while others were intended for ladies. Who would utter that today?

In the realm of watches, I am confident that we are pioneers in eliminating gender labels, and I take great satisfaction in this development, as I believe it represents the future.

Image: Zenith

Zenith's venture into sustainable watchmaking involves a collaboration with Nona Source for the production of repurposed straps. Are there intentions to incorporate recycled materials in additional components of a watch, such as the case or movement?

Affirmative, certainly. We are presently in the research phase, necessitating a methodical and systematic approach. What is the reason? We prioritize authenticity and I wish to avoid making exaggerated marketing assertions while producing only a limited number of watches with recycled materials. If we are to pursue this, we must do so earnestly, and I contend that there has yet to be an instance of a timepiece manufactured entirely sustainably at an industrial scale.

I believe that requires time, and we are currently addressing it. Currently, we are implementing steps to begin altering the mindset.

In light of the rapid pace of digitalization, what is Zenith's position regarding its exploration of the metaverse, the use of cryptocurrency payments, and the experimentation with NFTs?

We cannot assert that we are in the 21st century while disregarding it. An exemplary case is our e-commerce platform – we initiated it rapidly and are progressing swiftly. However, simultaneous execution of all tasks is not feasible. Prior to engaging in e-commerce, I have been observing and acquiring knowledge on the most effective methodologies. We receive suggestions and offers for NFTs weekly, encompassing both commendable and subpar options. We must execute it correctly.

Similarly, I am sure that the metaverse may enhance client experience by immersing them in the brand through many methods. We will embrace it as a contemporary brand; not today or this year, but it is forthcoming.

Green and Tiffany blue are currently the most popular colors. Do you have any audacious forecasts regarding the forthcoming fashionable color?

I desire the ability to be a trailblazer in color selection. I believe pink will likely be an intriguing color to see. Historically, pink has been perceived as a very feminine color, as it is commonly associated with girls, while blue is linked to boys. This is yet another instance of a vintage item.

We have conducted several trials using pink dials, all of which have been highly successful. I believe pink is making a resurgence; a refined, even subtly pale pink could be a compelling color to reintroduce.