Bvlgari at Watches and Wonders 2025: The World's Slimmest Tourbillon and a New Serpenti Icon
- Tiffany Zang
- May 16
- 2 min read
Bvlgari's impressive debut at Watches and Wonders showcases the record-setting Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon and the elegant new Serpenti Aeterna.
In its inaugural presentation at Watches and Wonders Geneva, Bvlgari launched a formidable dual initiative with the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon and the Serpenti Aeterna. The new Ultra is unequivocally the world’s thinnest tourbillon timepiece, measuring a mere 1.85mm, which is 0.5mm slimmer than last year’s leading model, the Piaget Altiplano Concept Tourbillon. Meanwhile, the Serpenti Aeterna is, in our assessment, the most sophisticated bangle watch globally. The launch was appropriate, as briefly mentioned in our article on the just finished fair, where we remarked that Bvlgari provided a positive atmosphere at the Palexpo. That is a significant understatement that we shall amend.
The Mechanical Movement of the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Elegance is inherently subjective; so, we should commence with the Ultra, which, despite its complexity, merits recognition through its skill and ambition. Bvlgari's high-complication watchmaking division has been pursuing records for over a decade, and the thin chic trend has elevated watchmaking to unprecedented levels. A mechanical movement is constructed from layers of springs and gears. The objective in creating the thinnest watch is to consolidate all components onto a single plane whenever feasible. That encapsulates the essence, resulting in remarkable architecture inside movement design. This limited edition of 20 is not suitable for all individuals.
The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon features the calibre BVF 900, which employs the radical approach of eliminating the base plate entirely. Instead, it incorporates the caseback as a component, which is a prominent method in this form of horology. The dial side, despite the inappropriateness of this terminology for the Ultra, often characterized by the motion works, now prominently features the gear train and mainspring, as well as the tourbillon. Similar to other Ultra models, a conventional crown is absent in this iteration. Two distinct gears, positioned at 8 o’clock and 3 o’clock, respectively, are responsible for winding the watch and setting the time. Once more, these processes now operate on the same plane, contrary to what occurs in ordinary movement.
We shall now omit the several more features that contribute to the Ultra's excellence, although we may choose to explore the realm of ultra-thin watchmaking in the near future. We must conclude with a few remarks about the Serpenti Aeterna, which is truly a delight to wear.
The most streamlined Serpenti to date, this model heavily emphasizes graphics, resembling less of a traditional watch. Generally, we regard something unfavorably, but not in this context. In alignment with our streamlined interpretation of the Ultra, the Serpenti Aeterna might be seen as a timepiece primarily intended for ornamental purposes. While its identity as a watch is irrelevant, it is essential to note that it conveys the time with remarkable efficacy. Similar to certain snakes that conceal themselves in plain view, the Serpenti Aeterna also exhibits this trait.
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