The Resurgence of Daniel Roth’s Iconic Ellipsocurvex Case

The Daniel Roth Tourbillon epitomizes the quintessential classic timepiece: sophisticated, distinctive, appropriate, and imbued with profound horological heritage.

I have consistently like the Ellipsocurvex case by Daniel Roth. The designation of the shape seen on these pages is currently referred to as such, while the brand now favors an earlier nomenclature: Double Ellipse. A hybrid of a rectangle and a circle, it presents a distinctive interpretation of a timepiece's shape or form. Typically, anyone departing from the square, rectangle, or tonneau approaches the unconventional. Nonetheless, the archetypal Daniel Roth case possesses an intriguing quality. It is simultaneously peculiar and magnificent by any standard. The Daniel Roth Tourbillon possesses a distinctive characteristic; any objection to it will immediately extinguish your desire for it. For those present, I will elucidate the significance of this timepiece in the annals of horology.

One of the Pioneers

In the 1980s, only a few watchmakers were engaged in the creation of high complexities. Even fewer individuals engaged in the creation of the tourbillon, a historical anomaly at the time, with merely a handful of pieces produced annually. Similar to his contemporaries Franck Muller, François-Paul Journe, and George Daniels, the watchmaker Daniel Roth developed a tourbillon movement, one of the earliest of the modern era, specifically designed for the wrist. At that time, he was employed by a manufacturer named Nouvelle Lemania. This renowned company primarily produced chronographs, particularly for its principal client, Breguet, as well as for those who utilized what are now referred to as Lemania calibres. That is the Breguet prior to its acquisition by Swatch Group, therefore a smaller entity. Indeed, both Breguet and Nouvelle Lemania were purchased by the Swatch Group. The brand continues to utilize the Lemania chronograph calibre, now designated as Caliber 558.1.

In 1988, Daniel Roth established his own enterprise and reconstructed a variant of his tourbillon calibre, with blanks supplied by Nouvelle Lemania. He designed a case of his own creation, so distinctive that it contributed to the establishment of his brand identity. Moreover, he adorned it with a dial that evolved into another hallmark: an off-centered subdial for hours and minutes, elevated at 12 o’clock by the prominent tourbillon positioned at 6 o’clock. Flanking and intersecting the tourbillon is an exquisite bridge, mounted to a guilloché surface that evokes Breguet’s original aesthetic. Consider the Breguet reference 3350, for instance. The seconds display was, and still, distinctly unique. It features a three-pronged seconds hand mounted on the tourbillon carriage, which traverses a triple-scale seconds sector. Daniel Roth, both the watchmaker and the brand, was a trailblazing member of the autonomous cohort committed to historical watchmaking, which adhered to the highest standards of finishing. Currently, these creators and the trademarks associated with their names are equivalent to royalty.

Resurgence of the Curves

Nonetheless, in 2011, the brand was discontinued. It was acquired by Bulgari before to its purchase by LVMH. Bulgari sought the manufacturing facilities that Daniel Roth shared with the renowned, now-resurrected brand, Gérald Genta. In 2023, Jean Arnault, a member of the renowned Arnault family, asserted ownership of the brand during his leadership of Louis Vuitton's watch division. Daniel Roth's initial action was to create a 20-unit series in yellow gold titled "Souscription." This essentially required you to apply initially and receive the watch subsequently, contingent upon being selected by the brand's leadership. The subsequent iteration is this rose gold variant presented in the autumn of this year.

At first glance, the contemporary Daniel Roth Tourbillon is a refined and modern iteration of the 1990s model. Certainly, the movement necessitated modification, as the original was no longer obtainable from either the Breguet Manufacture or Lemania. The manufacturing division of Louis Vuitton, La Fabrique du Temps, directed by horological experts Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, developed a new movement named calibre DR001. The external aspects of the tourbillon retain the same appearance as the original. Internally, it represents an entirely novel design, being 2mm thinner, including an 80-hour battery reserve, several gold chatons, and exquisite finishing details.

The case dimensions have undergone minor alterations, and the details are more refined, however the essence remains intact. A component of this is the mirror-polished elongated tourbillon bridge supported by pillars, which constitutes an appropriate kind of fan service. The guilloché technique on the rose gold dial represents another progressive advancement, intended to evoke nostalgia. The final aspect is an experience that images cannot capture and words cannot adequately convey: the unique satisfaction of wearing this watch. It is unparalleled in the current worldwide market, which is a significant assertion considering its vastness.