The Quest for Perfection by Rolex

Since its establishment, Rolex has consistently upheld its commitment to producing the world's premier timepieces for all individuals, regardless of location.

Final visual and functional check of an Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41

Given the continual technological developments and innovations in haute horlogerie, it is difficult to imagine a period when mechanical wristwatches were regarded as unreliable timepieces, appreciated more for their aesthetics than their precision. It is even more challenging to conceive that this period occurred as recent as the early 20th century - merely two generations prior. However, it was Rolex that revolutionized the entire landscape.

Profoundly discontented with the erratic condition of horology in his era, founder Hans Wilsdorf dedicated his life to converting the wristwatch from a mere adornment into a dependable instrument capable of synchronizing with the movements of individual wearers and the fluctuations of their increasingly dynamic daily lives. To achieve this, he concentrated on three essential innovations:

Every watch designated as a Superlative Chronometer is accompanied by Rolex's green seal.

The initial objective was to generate minute movements with precision comparable to that of naval chronometers, the definitive standards of the era. The second objective is to create a durable and waterproof case to safeguard the mechanisms from external elements such as dust, rain, spills, and perspiration. Additionally, the third objective is to equip the watch with a self-winding mechanism that would provide the wearer with enhanced daily convenience. By 1931, he had accomplished all three objectives.

Contemporary Rolex has not only maintained its commitment to unparalleled perfection in the 21st century but has also enhanced it. Currently, each Rolex watch is designated as a “Superlative Chronometer,” signifying outstanding quality through eight fundamental principles: precision, waterproofness, autonomy, robustness, simplicity, craftsmanship, comfort, and durability.

Manual assembly of a Rolex mechanism, Exploded view of the Oyster case – 1926, Establishing New Standards

Precision is the perpetual objective of all horologists, however few have approached it with the same seriousness as Rolex since inception. In 1910, a Rolex was the inaugural wristwatch to acquire a chronometric precision certificate from an official rating institution, and within four years later, it attained a Class 'A' accreditation from the Kew Observatory in England – the preeminent authority on chronometric precision at that time. Currently, the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) holds that authority, and although all Rolex movements are COSC-certified, this certification alone was insufficient. To be designated a 'Superlative Chronometer', the completed and assembled watch must then undergo the Superlative Control tests. This certification, exclusive to the Rolex Manufacture, ensures an extraordinary precision of –2/+2 seconds per day, exceeding the COSC standard of -4/+6 seconds per day.

Manual assembly of a Rolex movement. Exploded diagram of the Oyster case – 1926

Rolex is recognized as the inventor of the world's inaugural waterproof watch, the Oyster, which was launched in 1926. Nevertheless, it has never relied on this specific achievement. In 1953, Rolex advanced this idea by launching the Twinlock crown, leading to the introduction of the Triplock crown in 1970, and subsequently the Ringlock system in 2008. Moreover, it is not just the timepieces that are resistant to water and dust; the manufacturing facilities also uphold rigorously regulated humidity and air quality standards.

The Oyster Perpetual family of watches features a minimum water resistance of 100 meters, with Rolex incorporating a safety margin of up to 10 percent for standard models and an additional 25 percent for dive watches. The Deepsea Challenge models, featuring an exceptional water resistance of 11,000 metres, are further evaluated in ultra-high-pressure tanks to confirm their ability to endure pressures at depths of 13,750 metres. The Oyster Perpetual label indicates that a watch is both waterproof and self-winding, having an average power reserve of around 72 hours when not worn or wound.

The winding mechanism utilizing a perpetual rotor, introduced by Rolex and patented in 1931, along with the caliber it encompasses, is detailed below.

Excellence in Simplicity

Rolex watches are designed for wear, prompting the Manufacture to implement extensive measures to protect its timepieces from the challenges of everyday life. This commences with the selection of only the finest materials, including unique Oystersteel and RLX titanium casings, along with the vibrant and scratch-resistant high-tech Cerachrom bezels and bezel inserts. The durability of Rolex watches is evaluated by testing simulating harsh situations. A device subjects the timepieces to a pressure of 4.5 tons, another lowers them from 20 distinct positions, and a third relentlessly pounds them. These tests guarantee that the exceptional performance of each watch will remain intact, regardless of whether it is worn by a mountaineer, navigator, deep-sea diver, or polar explorer.

Installation of the Saros annual calendar's month disc on a calibre 9002

Since its inception, Rolex has been motivated by the belief that mechanical simplification signifies performance and reliability. The Cosmograph Daytona, while exemplifying exceptional timing craftsmanship, consists of merely 314 components. The same applies to the formulation of the Saros yearly calendar. Introduced in 2012 on the Sky-Dweller, this annual calendar necessitates merely four supplementary gear trains and two gear ratios to indicate the date. The operation of the Sky-Dweller is very straightforward, facilitated by the Ring Command system, enabling the wearer to easily adjust the date, month, local time, and reference time using the rotating bezel and crown.

The artistic crafts are apparent in every element of a Rolex watch, irrespective of the model's utilitarian nature. Every centimeter, from the manner in which the middle cases capture and reflect light to the optimized geometry and curve of the watch case and bracelet, conforms to Rolex's stringent criteria of artistic creativity. Even its opulent gem-encrusted timepieces adhere to the same ideals, with artisans meticulously choosing only the finest stones and setting them with unparalleled skill and refinement.

The water resistance of each completed watch is evaluated in a hyperbaric chamber.

Validated and Established

The wearer's comfort, highlighted by the introduction of the wristwatch, has become a fundamental aspect of Rolex's pursuit of excellence. Ongoing enhancements in wearability have led to the introduction of new features like as the Oysterlock safety clasp and the supplementary Easylink, Rolex Glidelock, and Fliplock extension systems.

Reliability assessment for Oyster bracelets

Although wear and tear are unavoidable, Rolex is dedicated to alleviating their impact. The extensive array of machines the business has created for stress-testing its products is remarkable. Certain machines are specifically designed for shaking bracelets, whereas others perpetually open and close the clasps. Machines exist that immerse watches in chlorine and salt, shower them with sand, and expose them to extreme temperatures. Nonetheless, robots are incapable of simulating every scenario; so, prototypes are utilized by actual individuals for years prior to the commencement of mass manufacture of the final watches.

This stringent, almost draconian, attitude to quality control has consistently been a priority at Rolex. Thus, each Rolex watch is, in every regard, a paragon of excellence.