Patek Philippe Cubitus Disrupts Convention with Innovative Square Aesthetic

The Cubitus reinterprets Patek Philippe’s heritage, presenting the brand’s inaugural square wristwatch characterized by an audacious design and a contemporary vision for timepieces.

From left: Patek Philippe Ref. 5821/1A, Patek Philippe Ref. 5822P and Patek Philippe Ref. 5821/1AR

The horological year commencing with Watches and Wonders Geneva in April of the previous year was particularly distinguished by the absence of a new collection from Patek Philippe. Press attending the expo learned about the upcoming launch through calendar blocking requests for October. This news was subsequently covered by nearly all, including Luxuo. What is the reason behind the commotion? Patek Philippe does not reveal a new collection frequently; in fact, it has not occurred even once in the recent decade, with the latest complete collection being the Twenty~4 for ladies in 1997. To achieve a collection with greater diversity and intrinsic allure for men, we must revisit the 1995 introduction of the Aquanaut. The extended duration between collections indicates the time required for collectors to completely adopt innovations from established brands.

We emphasized this issue in our inaugural article on the Cubitus, published immediately following the collection's public unveiling. This narrative also addressed the fundamentals of the three new timepieces, therefore we will not reiterate that information, except when essential to emphasize specific themes. In that regard…

From left: Patek Philippe Ref. 5821/1A, Patek Philippe Ref. 5822P and Patek Philippe Ref. 5821/1AR

The Cubitus is unequivocally novel and, for clarification, it is indeed a perfectly square timepiece. Do not be misled by the rounded corners. This shape is unprecedented for Patek Philippe, marking the brand's inaugural creation of such a wristwatch. Any analogous shape you may be envisioning, like as the Gondolo featuring the renowned Ref. 5100, is not square (but we will revisit these timepieces thereafter).

Patek Philippe Reference 5100, limited edition in white gold

Stern stated, "There are two reasons the square shape is significant: first, it has never been included in the brand's permanent collection, and second, I always appreciate observing square watches from other brands." “Furthermore, I believed it would be advantageous to astonish individuals with it.” It serves as a personal challenge for me to assert, "No one anticipated my arrival there!"

Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5712/1R-001 Rose Gold

Stern eliminates any belief that market forces or collector desires inspired the design of the Cubitus. Reference 5821 is the successor to the highly esteemed and now-retired Reference 5711A, and Stern indicates that he envisioned the Cubitus as an integral component of the Nautilus lineage. This is apparent from the selection of hands, dials, and the integrated bracelet of the time-only variants. Although it is not immediately apparent in Ref. 5822, this is possibly due to the end link for Nautilus models with leather straps being less renowned than the integrated bracelets. A comparative analysis of Ref. 5822 and Ref. 5712, both featuring leather straps, demonstrates that the connections between the Nautilus and Cubitus are notably robust, if you will excuse the pun.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5822P-001 Platinum

Patek Philippe contends that what we see as Nautilus hallmarks are, in fact, brand identifiers. I did not consider the Nautilus during the initiation of the design process. My objective was to locate a watch that has both an athletic and classic aesthetic. I may have drawn inspiration from the Nautilus due to its robust design; when examining that watch, I pondered, 'How can I create something as formidable as the Nautilus or Aquanaut, but in a square form?' The square was unequivocally my primary objective.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 7010/1R-013

Stern stated, "I am aware that some may consider the Cubitus to be somewhat akin to the Nautilus, but I have no objections." “What is the rationale for altering my approach solely due to design carry-overs?” What significance does the watch's aesthetic hold? We do not attempt to alter circumstances only based on prior actions. Envision if we were to declare that among all the circular timepieces we have produced! “Refrain from conducting another round of observation.” It would be unfeasible.

Patek Philippe Gondolo Line Ref. 4962/200R-001

It is noteworthy that Patek Philippe predominantly allocates its shape watches to the previously mentioned Gondolo line. Stern's omission of this collection and the Golden Ellipse is a significant indicator of the nature of the Cubitus and Patek Philippe's aspirations for it. The team initially grappled with articulating the significance of the new collection concisely; nonetheless, we have since concluded that the Patek Philippe Cubitus is designed for substantial commercial success. Excluding the Twenty~4, Patek Philippe lacks a commercially viable watch collection.

Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Automatic Ladies Collection Ref. 7300/1200A

In that regard, the Twenty~4 was the final significant commercial collection for the Geneva brand, although sales are not delineated by collection. In comparison, the Nautilus and Aquanaut are immensely popular; yet, Patek Philippe regards both as niche products. The Cubitus signifies a strategy for the brand to capitalize on the commercial potential of its sporting lines while safeguarding its famous models from market fluctuations.

We will conclude with an optimistic observation regarding market forces, however improbable that may seem. Movements are significant, particularly those of Patek Philippe, and if there is a demand for the Cubitus, it may also be prudent for the exquisite form movements from the Gondolo collection to be reintroduced. In the interim, please anticipate our comprehensive interview with Stern and other articles regarding the Cubitus in the next Festive edition of WOW.