Matthias Breschan, CEO of Longines: The Essence of Aviation in Horology
- Anne Wang
- Apr 10, 2023
- 7 min read
The watch expert articulates the brand's enthusiasm for aviation-themed timepieces and his affection for mechanical watches.
Longines is a dynamic brand, often associated with aviation. This statement is unequivocally applicable to CEO Matthias Breschan, whom we have encountered twice within a few months, both in Asia but in different countries. This extraordinary narrative emerged from two interviews and several launch events. The more notable event occurred in March of this year when Longines unveiled a portion of its new offerings for the year. We will address those matters in due time; nevertheless, we should first listen to Breschan regarding the brand's future goals.
We have seen the current CEO of Longines watches several times, dating back to his tenure at Rado. Breschan has dedicated a significant portion of his career to The Swatch Group, including his roles at Hamilton and Swatch. Within the Swatch Group, only the chief executives are authorized to issue public statements for attribution. Consequently, Breschan faces a challenging role, consistently required to address inquiries from the global media. He has been exceptionally candid regarding the pandemic's effect on business, for instance. He recently informed The Straits Times that Longines' vulnerabilities, stemming from its dependence on tourist expenditure rather than cultivating its domestic markets, became apparent during the tumultuous period of Covid-19. The brand has recovered, attaining 2019 levels once more in 2022; this is noteworthy, considering that the travel circumstances have, perhaps, not yet reverted to 2019 standards, demonstrating that Longines effectively responded to the obstacles it encountered.
Although Breschan is evidently eager to see several markets, this excursion is rather sensitive. The cause of the difficulty in this instance is precisely the purpose for our assembly in Bangkok. Although we have observed the innovations and Breschan has provided commentary, the most remain under embargo, limiting our ability to disclose further information.
This indicates that we must communicate indirectly at times, and the interview has been adjusted accordingly. This also implies that we are unable to display numerous innovations throughout these sites. Nonetheless, Breschan discussed overarching strategies, which we will incorporate alongside the previous interview conducted in Singapore. Everything will be clarified, as you will observe from the initial inquiry. This conversation is not the first chronologically, and all subsequent content has been altered and formatted for clarity and structure.
The encounter in Bangkok occurred at the Four Seasons, where coincidentally, the Czech manager of the hotel own a vintage Longines Majetek watch. Breschan informed us that the brand first got aware of this when it contacted the hotel regarding holding the 2023 regional novelty launch. This may be a favorable indication for both the new Majetek and for innovations overall.
Prior to examining aviation watches and the topics of 2023, please elaborate on the plan set in 2022.
The 2022 collection clearly illustrates our future development approach. We released the Spirit Zulu GMT with a novel exclusive GMT movement in March of last year. It has cutting-edge technology, including a silicon balance spring and a genuine GMT movement, allowing for independent adjustment of the hour hand from the minute hand. Furthermore, considering our legacy of creating the GMT movement in 1925… It commenced in 1908 with a pocket watch featuring dual time zones, commissioned by the Ottoman ruler. Historically, pilots need a reference time, known as GMT, to prevent air crashes, which they referred to as the zero meridian. In aviation terminology, zero is referred to as Zulu, which is the rationale behind naming the Spirit Zulu accordingly.
Another instance is the Ultra-Chron Diver, which features a high-frequency movement. Longines significantly transformed timekeeping in sports with the introduction of the first pocket watch in 1914, enabling time measurement with a precision of 1/10th of a second. By 1916, we had reduced it to one-hundredth of a second. Longines became so renowned for its exceptional precision that it was sought after by all organizers of sporting events to timing competitions. In 1959, we first incorporated high-frequency movements into a wristwatch. In 2022, we selected a dive watch from 1968 as the basis for the Ultra-Chron. It is remarkable not just for its 36,000 VPH movement and 52-hour power reserve but also for the watch's workmanship, featuring a sapphire crystal inlay on the bezel. In the market for watches priced below US$5,000, there is nothing comparable like this. It is chronometer-certified by Timelab, a Swiss organization that certifies not just the movement, like COSC does, but also the entire watch head.
We cannot conceive of any watches in that price range featuring a high-frequency movement, let alone possessing all three attributes!
There is an intriguing narrative around the Ultra-Chron, the modern model introduced in 2022. Initially, some watches were dispatched to France, specifically to the renowned Gallerie Lafayette department store. On the day of their arrival, a distinguished collector, noted for acquiring luxury items, visited our boutique and requested the Ultra-Chron. I am uncertain how this individual was informed of the precise day the watch will arrive at the boutique, although contemporary collectors possess extensive knowledge! He requested the watch to assess its precision. The store manager grew apprehensive due to the collector possessing a gadget that measures the amplitude of mechanical movement, possibly the portable Accuracy2. The individual connected the device to his phone, and after five minutes, he declared he was finished. “I have never measured precision to the extent you have with your Ultra-Chron watch.” He purchased the watch and departed.
That is an excellent narrative! This raises a concern I have likely before addressed with you regarding the pricing of Longines timepieces. An upward trend appears to be emerging for 2023. Is that correct?
Longines is situated inside the US$1,000 to $5,000 bracket, a status it has maintained for the past two decades and will persist in for the next two decades. With the introduction of new items for 2023, we are advancing towards the higher end of the spectrum while maintaining our current position. Historically, most of our watches fell within the US$1,000 to $2,500 range; however, models such as the Majetek and the Spirit Flyback Chronograph now exceed this range, yet remain below US$5,000. Similar to the Spirit Zulu GMT, the new timepieces incorporate advanced technical improvements in case construction and utilize Longines-exclusive movements, justifying their pricing, which remains rather fair for their quality. Similar to the Ultra-Chron, the Majetek is unparalleled in its price range (although, in fact, there is nothing else in the market comparable to the Majetek – Ed). Despite Longines' commitment to innovation, we have consistently maintained our price segment - this is the advantage of being part of the Swatch Group. We achieve economies of scale and have no necessity to escalate further due to Omega, nor to diminish, since Tissot suffices.
Presenting a flyback chronograph for less than US$5,000 is somewhat audacious! We have also learned that this model holds relevance; could you elaborate on it, please?
We must examine the chronometric history of Longines for the solutions. Consumer awareness regarding timepieces has significantly expanded in recent years. Contemporary consumers, especially the youth, possess extensive knowledge. Increasingly, we observe their enthusiasm for timepieces—specifically, mechanical movements, intricacies in horology, and the historical context of the art. For instance, regarding the Flyback Chronograph, Longines developed the inaugural wristwatch flyback chronograph in 1935 – we possess a patent for this innovation. Longines developed the inaugural chronograph timepiece in 1913, including the significant calibre 13.33Z.
The flyback chronograph is an integral aspect of our tradition, exemplified by the renowned manual-winding 13ZN movement, which is so understated that even Breschan expressed astonishment upon discovering it after joining the firm in 2020. The flyback chronograph function was crucial for pioneering aviators, as it enabled them to stop and reset the chronograph with a single pusher, ensuring no time was lost while commencing a new recording period. This was significant at the time since aviators needed to strategize course alterations based on their flight duration (at a designated speed), so the flyback chronograph provided a distinct edge.
Considering that the flyback chronograph, along with chronographs in general, is a robust offering for Longines, why commence the year with the Majetek, which is a more complex timepiece to comprehend?
The original watch was a significant advancement, demonstrating that Longines pioneered the rotating bezel in 1935. Few individuals are aware that the invention of this type of bezel is commonly misattributed to dive watches of the 1950s, which is inaccurate. The purpose of this type of bezel was intended for navigators at sea or in the air to aid with maintaining their course, and these pioneers are significant to the history of Longines. I believe that early aviators like Charles Lindbergh and Amelia Earhart could not have accomplished their feats without Longines, as they need dependable timing devices on their wrists (Longines also produced cockpit timekeepers – Ed).
The Majetek incorporates innovative features, such as a silicon antimagnetic escapement. Certainly, the same effect might have been achieved with quartz; nonetheless, we comprehend your rationale for not pursuing that option. What is your perspective on the distinction between quartz and mechanical timepieces nowadays, considering that Longines offers both types in its collection?
Individuals who value quartz movements constitute a distinct clientele. They desire timepieces that require no maintenance; they prefer not to retrieve a watch from the drawer and adjust it often. The purchaser of mechanical timepieces possesses a certain comprehension of our creations. I recall my own experience when I initially joined The Swatch Group. I participated in a session that elucidated the distinctions between quartz and mechanical movements. Upon concluding the session, we were provided with a mechanical pocket watch movement, which each participant was required to remove and subsequently rebuild. At this point, my admiration for mechanical movements, the craftsmanship of watchmakers, and micro-mechanics underwent a complete transformation. This experience altered my perception of mechanical watches, leading me to truly value them as emotional accessories. Indeed, it is retained for a lifetime, extending to subsequent generations; one does not replace it every six months or annually, nor is it discarded. This is the moment when you genuinely appreciate the mechanical movement; this realization transforms your vision of horology.
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