Marc Jacobs Aims for the Position of Creative Director at Chanel

Marc Jacobs makes a daring attempt for fashion's most prestigious position, seeking to transform Chanel's iconic legacy.

Marc Jacobs at the 2024 CFDA Fashion Awards held at the American Museum of Natural History on October 28, 2024 in New York, New York. (Photo by Lexie Moreland/WWD via Getty Images)

The fashion business is experiencing an unparalleled turnover of creative directors at leading luxury houses, sometimes referred to as the era of 'musical chairs.' It seems that scarcely a week passes without encountering yet another resignation, fresh appointment, or a flurry of speculative rumors.

This year has been characterized by notable upheavals: Hedi Slimane resigned from Celine, Kim Jones departed from Fendi, Sarah Burton transitioned from Alexander McQueen to Givenchy, Alessandro Michele moved to Valentino, and Haider Ackermann replaced Peter Hawkings after merely a year at Tom Ford.

Nonetheless, a significant upheaval in the fashion industry occurred with the sudden exit of Virginie Viard from Chanel in June. At that time, the esteemed French label asserted that her successor would be announced “in due course,” although more than five months later, the desirable position remained vacant.

As group discussions proliferate with speculations regarding potential successors to the throne, one name consistently emerges: Marc Jacobs. It appears that he is highly interested in the position. “There is only one position I desire,” the designer stated during an interview with the Wall Street Journal this week, “and I have not been solicited for it.”

Jacobs, 61, acknowledged that he had sought to facilitate the process by asking his close associate Sofia Coppola, who collaborates with Chanel, to advocate for him.

Coppola informed the magazine, "Regrettably, I lack authority," further expressing that it would be a "dream" for Jacobs to assume the role of creative director—a sentiment echoed by many due to the designer's theatricality and refined provocation, which fans have likened to Karl Lagerfeld, who successfully led Chanel from 1983 until his demise in 2019.

The business's prior engagement with potential applicants remains uncertain, as does the necessity for further time. If Jacobs were to secure fashion's most prestigious role, it would mark the inaugural instance of an American occupying the position at the French maison.

PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 16: Marc Jacobs and Karl Lagerfeld participated in the LVMH Prize 2016 for Young Fashion Designers at the Fondation Louis Vuitton on June 16, 2016, in Paris, France. Photo by Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/Getty Images

Viard resigned as creative director of Chanel after 30 years with the brand, including five years as artistic director following Lagerfeld's death, with whom she collaborated closely. No formal rationale was given for her exit; however, the Maison recognized her contributions to a significant era in its history.

“Chanel announces the departure of Virginie Viard following a fruitful five-year tenure as artistic director of fashion collections, during which she successfully revitalized the house's codes while honoring Chanel's creative legacy, and nearly thirty years within the organization,” stated a communiqué shared with Vogue Business. A new creative organization will be introduced in due time. Chanel expresses gratitude to Virginie Viard for her exceptional contributions to the brand's fashion, originality, and vibrancy.