Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith, is elevating the brand to new heights.

Zenith CEO Julien Tornare discusses the elimination of gender classifications for its timepieces, sustainability initiatives, and digital transformation.

Image: Zenith

In an exclusive discussion with Men’s Folio and LUXUO during his visit to Singapore, Zenith CEO Julien Tornare discussed the progress Zenith has made since his appointment in 2017, the necessity of evolving as a contemporary watch manufacturer, and further topics.

Firstly, how delightful is it to return to Singapore since Zenith had the “A Star Through Time” exhibition here in 2019?

It is a tremendous delight. I resided in Asia for seven years until 2017, when I departed to join Zenith in Switzerland, which evokes a profound sense of fulfillment. My admiration for Singapore is multifaceted, although for watch enthusiasts, it is imperative to appreciate Singapore due to its preeminent watch culture, arguably the most robust in Asia.

May 1, 2022, signifies your fifth year leading Zenith. What was a primary objective you established for the team upon your initial arrival, and how near are you to achieving it at present?

The first objective was to rectify the brand, as Zenith was underperforming upon my arrival in 2017. In operating a firm, it must consistently expand and provide profits annually while maintaining a forward-looking growth strategy. The purpose was that. Between 2017 and 2019, we reinstated the foundational elements for marketing, product, strategy, and other areas.

At the conclusion of 2019, we commemorated the 50th anniversary of the El Primero, perceiving it as the inception of a promising era, particularly with the robust commencement we experienced in 2020 during the Dubai Watch Week, which yielded our most substantial orders to date. Subsequently, Covid emerged. We have been addressing the situation by diligently striving to increase our market share. We have been among the most proactive brands in enhancing our e-commerce platform and innovating methods of online communication with our customers. We have been increasing our market share to achieve a robust recovery in 2021.

The anticipated turnaround of Zenith was scheduled for 2020 but was delayed by a year due to Covid. In 2021, Zenith achieved a record year, with a three-digit turnover, double-digit profitability, and reestablishing itself as a robust and healthily developing brand.

Which challenge was more formidable: revitalizing Zenith under Jean-Claude Biver's direction or navigating it through the pandemic?

That is an excellent inquiry. I conducted thorough due diligence prior to accepting the position, thus I was aware of the brand's strengths and shortcomings and the reasons for its underperformance. I was aware of the necessary direction, but I required time, which was afforded to me by the LVMH group, allowing me to go incrementally.

Covid-19 presented greater challenges due to its novelty and unpredictability; there was uncertainty regarding its duration and the extent of its influence. No one anticipated that we would have to cease production as we did. We encountered significant turbulence and had to promptly assume effective management during the crisis. Navigating is effortless in tranquil waters, but when a tempest arises, the true skill of the captain is shown. Gaining market share and strengthening the brand has been a tough yet rewarding endeavor.

Which endeavor, in your opinion, elevated Zenith during the past five years?

It is challenging to determine definitively due to the numerous factors involved; nonetheless, the resurgence of Chronomaster is likely the most significant development, as the Defy collection was already in progress upon my arrival. The brand's current aspect was crucial for its rejuvenation. The Chronomaster epitomizes Zenith. Zenith is widely recognized for the El Primero and its elevated frequency.

Zenith is widely recognized for its tricolor sub-dial. Achieving success like we did last year with the Chronomaster Original, Chronomaster Sport, and now the Chronomaster Open was crucial for me. Failure in these aspects would result in the failure of the entire endeavor. We were unable to fail, and I take great pride in that accomplishment.

Zenith is resuming its momentum from 2021 with impressive presentations during LVMH Watch Week and Watches & Wonders Geneva. How do you guarantee that your team sustains momentum without experiencing burnout?

Image: Zenith

It is essential to convey to your staff that success has been achieved. Attending LVMH Watch Week in January and subsequently Watches & Wonders Geneva required some effort. In recognition of 2021 as our most successful year to date, we commemorated the occasion with the team, acknowledging the challenges we had previously faced. We dedicated time to celebrate, reward, and express our gratitude to our colleagues appropriately.

We demonstrated that 2022 will be as busy as the forthcoming years, but this is advantageous rather than detrimental. The individuals exhibited increasing motivation, which is paramount. I endeavor to convey my energy and passion to my workers, which I believe they value.

We also provide an opportunity for kids to be entrepreneurial, which is something I engage in daily.

Zenith took a decisive action to eliminate gender classifications for its timepieces. Has there been a significant alteration in client demographics after that choice was implemented?

It is premature to evaluate, given it was implemented last winter; yet, I would assert that it is a rational progression for a company aspiring to remain modern. In the 21st century, as we introduce contemporary products, who are we to designate this watch as exclusively for males or females? It is illogical. We produce exquisite watches in various sizes, with some exhibiting a feminine aesthetic and others a macho one. Men can possess a feminine sensibility, and women can have a masculine essence.

We inhabit a contemporary world where gender-based distinctions are obsolete and belong to the past. I consistently utilize automobiles as an illustration. Three decades ago, we might hear that certain cars were designated for males while others were intended for ladies. Who would assert that today?

In the realm of watches, I assert that we are pioneers in eliminating gender labels, and I am quite pleased with this development, as I believe it represents the future.

Image: Zenith

Zenith's venture into ecological watchmaking involves a collaboration with Nona Source for repurposed straps. Are there intentions to incorporate recycled materials in additional components of a watch, such as the case or movement?

Indeed, certainly. We are presently in the research phase, necessitating a methodical and systematic approach. What is the reason? We prioritize authenticity and do not wish to make exaggerated marketing claims while producing only two and a half watches from recycled components. If we are to pursue this, we must do so earnestly, and I do not believe there has been a precedent for a watch manufactured entirely sustainably at an industrial scale today.

I believe that it requires time, and we are now addressing it. Currently, we are implementing activities to initiate a shift in thinking.

In light of the rapid pace of digitalization, what is Zenith's position regarding its exploration of the metaverse, the use of cryptocurrency payments, and the experimentation with NFTs?

Once more, we cannot assert that we are in the 21st century while disregarding it. An exemplary case is our e-commerce platform – we initiated it promptly and are progressing rapidly. However, simultaneous execution of all tasks is unfeasible. Prior to engaging in e-commerce, I have been monitoring and acquiring knowledge on optimal practices. We receive suggestions and offers for NFTs weekly, encompassing both commendable and subpar options. We must execute it correctly.

Similarly, I am certain that we can enhance customer experience through the metaverse, immersing them in the brand in various ways. We will embrace it as a contemporary brand; not today or this year, but it is forthcoming.

Green and Tiffany blue are currently the most fashionable colors. Do you have any audacious forecasts regarding the forthcoming fashionable color?

I desire the ability to be a trailblazer in color selection. I believe pink will likely be an intriguing color to see. Historically, pink has been perceived as a very feminine color, as it is commonly associated with girls, while blue is linked to boys. This exemplifies a traditional artifact.

We have conducted several trials using pink dials, all of which have been highly successful. I believe pink is making a resurgence; a refined, perhaps subtly pale pink could emerge as a striking color choice.