CEO of Bulgari, Jean-Christophe Babin, Discusses Brand Enhancement
- Ashok Soman
- 7 days ago
- 7 min read
During Geneva Watch Days, Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin discusses the difficulties of maintaining a singular brand identity across various categories and shares his perspective on watch fairs.
This narrative has been long anticipated. It originates from TAG Heuer almost a decade ago. Although some publications within the group have conducted interviews with Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin since 2013, WOW has not secured one since at least 2016, particularly during this editor's tenure, who has not conducted such an interview in any prior positions or organizations – Ed. Considering that WOW has lately succeeded in interviewing the CEO of each LVMH watches brand, from Hublot to TAG Heuer, it was especially frustrating that Babin evaded us. We have successfully accomplished the LVMH Grand Slam of CEO interviews.
Babin is one of the final representatives of traditional watch and jewelry executives, yet he is not beholden to convention. He frequently deviates from expected behavior. We, and undoubtedly you as well, distinctly remember when Babin proclaimed Bulgari's ultra-thin watch challenge at BaselWorld, likely in 2013 or 2014. It was an exceedingly surprising action from an individual who had recently transitioned from TAG Heuer, where he had served as CEO since 2000. The foundation for this had already been established at the brand he would helm from that point to the present, since the Octo Finissimo was launched in 2012 and the Serpenti had already achieved success. During Babin's tenure, Bulgari had already ventured into home furnishings and the hospitality sector.
Babin, born in France although continuously characterized as Italian by himself and his team, distinguishes himself from his contemporaries by refraining from participating in discussions. The design language and brand communication reflect a consistent identity that Babin envisions for Bulgari, and he is confident in his team's ability to achieve this objective. He primarily references the team he assembled at Bulgari when discussing his legacy, particularly highlighting Vice President for Marketing and Communications Laura Burdese, who assists him with Bulgari's One-Brand Elevation strategy, aimed at maintaining brand consistency across all domains.
Babin, as a seasoned professional, articulates his opinions candidly; in contrast to other Swiss brand executives, he frequently references his competitors explicitly, even at the product level. All of this is documented, as you will observe. Babin is unreserved in making audacious assertions, as boldness is integral to Bulgari's Italian identity. When he first praised Bulgari's ultra-thin advancements in horology, he was challenging significant competitors, despite Bulgari's lack of experience in this field. The outcomes are self-evident, although Babin insists that the intention was not to pursue world records or attract media attention.
Consequently, we shall let Babin to proceed, commencing with a barrage practically immediately.
What was your experience at Geneva Watch Days?
This is the fourth consecutive Geneva Watch Days. We initiated our venture during the COVID-19 pandemic shutdown due to the necessity for a replacement for BaselWorld (now obsolete) and SIHH (now Watches and Wonders, which was converted into a digital-only event that year). Geneva Watch Days was the inaugural physical event for the watch and jewelry industry that year, however the predominant aspect was likely the digital version due to travel restrictions.
This year, it features an unprecedented 40 brands, representing a substantial quantity for a new exhibition. We possess not only the backing of Geneva (both the city and the Canton) but also the complete support of the FHH, the organizer of Watches and Wonders – Ed. We are unequivocally the official Geneva watch fair now more than ever! It is no longer merely a watch expo; it has evolved into a watch forum. A portion of the entire exhibition is allocated by the brands for forums and symposiums. Indeed, the companies are present to unveil innovations; but, a significant portion of time is also dedicated to communication through formats such as forums and panel discussions. Bulgari hosted an engaging symposium featuring Wei Koh from Revolution, focusing on brand builders. I engaged in another discussion with Georges Kern (of Breitling) and Max Busser (of MB&F) over the future of retail. Geneva Watch Days features numerous activities, including an auction to support the Geneva watchmaking school.
I previously cited 40 brands; but, numerous others are capitalizing on this significant assembly to host their own events. Approximately 20 to 25 non-exhibitors are likely organizing events during Geneva Watch Days, rendering it one of the most significant watch fairs on the global calendar.
Geneva Watch Days is established as a permanent event.
I attended BaselWorld for numerous years, initially representing TAG Heuer and subsequently Bulgari. I attended the SIHH in Geneva practically every year, motivated by curiosity. Ultimately, prior to the escalation of events, I harbored much skepticism regarding the structures and conceptions of those fairs, though not due to any aversion to or disbelief in watch fairs themselves. Approximately 30 to 40 years ago, the methodology was distinctly apparent and rational. With the progression of technology, changing consumption patterns, diverse clientele across various marketplaces, and the rise of digital media consumption, the situation had become somewhat antiquated and excessively costly.
I intended to depart from BaselWorld prior to the onset of COVID-19, which expedited my decision; discontent with the traditional format of the fairs prompted several like-minded friends and myself to initiate a new venture. In the absence of COVID, we would have initiated this anyhow, potentially in 2021 or 2022; nevertheless, as previously mentioned, events were expedited. The timing was exceedingly unfavorable; there were lockdowns in effect. We had to reschedule the date three times. Ultimately, in August 2020, we succeeded, despite the globe remaining far from normalcy.
The outcome was successful, affirming that our ideology and the foundational elements of our new concept resonate more harmoniously with contemporary trends than the previous fairs, which explains Watches and Wonders' disfavor towards us. It is undoubtedly distressing to observe a small consortium of mid-sized firms effortlessly organizing a cost-effective fair, receiving support from authorities that have historically neglected larger, more expensive conventional fairs.
The landscape of watchmaking has evolved significantly throughout your career. What personal changes have you experienced from your tenure at TAG Heuer to your current position at Bulgari?
Bulgari functions as a conglomerate, as we operate across various sectors. Bulgari is a very tiny luxury conglomerate in comparison to LVMH, to whom we are affiliated, although we engage in jewelry, watches, hotels, fragrances, accessories, and bags. TAG Heuer is predominantly a horologist, however it has also achieved success in eyewear. We have achieved progress in the luxury mobile phone sector; nonetheless, TAG Heuer remains primarily a watchmaker. Perpetually.
The primary distinction is that I must exhibit greater mental agility to transition between categories. Bulgari is contending with several brands across multiple categories. This competition is influenced by various factors; client expectations vary across categories, necessitating agility to transition between them while maintaining a stringent framework that encompasses all aspects, ensuring that for the client, there exists a singular brand, despite its presence in multiple categories. To do this, I have explicitly delineated that Bulgari is fundamentally a splendid Roman jeweler, and that all our endeavors will be intrinsically linked to our Roman heritage and jewelry craftsmanship.
This signifies that we are the Roman artisan of time; the Roman craftsman of exquisite materials; the purveyor of olfactory experiences (for fragrances); and the epitome of hospitality for the hotels (and so forth). All tasks are executed with meticulous attention to quality, aesthetics, detail, and the pursuit of excellence in ideals. I am accountable for this thread, which links all categories, as there is no artistic director overseeing brand consistency and innovation. I ensure that all businesses align with the mission. Alongside my Marketing Vice President, Laura Burdese, we guarantee that our diversity conveys a unified brand perception to consumers and clients. It represents the pinnacle of luxury experiences globally, particularly in watchmaking, exemplified by the rose gold bridges and platinum micro-rotors of the BVL138 and BVL305 calibres that drive the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic and the Perpetual Calendar, as showcased at Geneva Watch Days. We are en route. It remains unachieved due to its ambitious nature. This is the vision that propels us forward.
Considering Bulgari's esteemed image as a jeweler, news regarding LVMH frequently assert that Bulgari's jewelry division surpasses the entirety of LVMH's watch sector; please tell me if I am erroneous.
Indeed, I shall not rectify your statement!
Understood! What is the rationale for concentrating on these additional domains? What is the rationale for dedicating over a decade of effort to establish the Octo Finissimo as the thinnest watch globally, encompassing many complications?
The watch market is substantial, yet our market share is rather minor. We are a significant participant; nonetheless, only Rolex possesses a dominant market share.
In a fragmented market, acquiring market share is generally more feasible, assuming one employs creativity and consistency alongside a qualitative strategy. We invested much effort in micro mechanical engineering with the Finissimo, as well as in the Piccolissimo for women, which subsequently led to the development of prominent models in the Serpenti collection, Bulgari’s best-selling line. The production of ultra-thin timepieces was never intended to surpass world records. Our objective was to realize our concept of men's style, characterized by ultimate macho contemporary elegance.
In ready-to-wear fashion, it is referred to as thin fit. Consequently, when gents embraced slim cut attire, a slim watch was requisite to avoid incongruity. This marked the inception of the ultra-slim Octo Finissimo! The slim fit design necessitated a reengineering of the mechanical movement to align with the aesthetic vision. We have achieved remarkable success in this endeavor, holding the ultra-thin record across all categories; whatever you specify, we possess it!
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