Inheritance and the Luxury Sector

There exist two factions of individuals - one that is fixated on conspicuous displays of affluence, and another that favors discretion.

Casts of HBO’s Succession series

If Emily in Paris epitomizes luxury in a society that has extensively democratized and sensationalized the concept of being and appearing "luxe," the attire in Succession derides that idea. Recent cultural transformations, including the emergence of celebrity influencers and the proliferation of thrifted or rented designer items, have fundamentally altered the dynamics of the luxury industry, enabling broader participation than previously conceivable. There exist two distinct groups: one that revels in possessing logo-embellished fashion items or overtly displaying their affluence through an array of sports vehicles and yachts; and the other, who opts for anonymity while nevertheless indulging in a lavish lifestyle.

The characters in the acclaimed series, Succession, align perfectly with the latter classification. For individuals who favor ostentatious displays of affluence, the understated aesthetic of Succession fashion appears enigmatic and perplexing, if not also disconcerting and inscrutable. For years, the show's protagonists have attracted notice for their attire, with part of the allure being that the clothing worn by the affluent characters is understated and unbranded.

Jeremy Strong plays Kendall Roy in the award-winning series, Succession

In the start of Succession season 4, Kendall Roy, a prominent character, dons jeans, a t-shirt, a bomber jacket, and a baseball jacket, an ensemble that, superficially, may originate from Uniqlo. Following investigation, it was established that the ensemble comprised items from Gucci and Loro Piana, totaling just under $10,000. For an extended period, society has been familiar with the ostentatious display of money; nonetheless, Succession has concealed its on-screen millionaires within understated affluence. While online aspirationalism frequently manifests as a cyclical display of costly monogrammed handbags, Succession presents a depiction of opulence that disregards trends altogether.

Not many individuals possess the financial means to afford that privilege. With each passing season, ancillary people consistently endeavor to conform to the sartorial standards of the Roy family's milieu. From the inaugural episode of the series, when family patriarch Logan Roy derisively regards the Patek Philippe bestowed upon him by his son-in-law, the audience comprehends that striving too hard is a social blunder, irrespective of the monetary value. In the following season, his son Kendall, who is arguably the most ambitious of the Roy brothers, adopts the persona of an art startup entrepreneur in an attempt to invest in a company. Recognizing himself as a pretender, he interrupts the meeting to remove the Lanvin shoes he purchased for the event. Mortified, the wealthiest individual present reveals his status as an outsider and forfeits his opportunity. His wealth could not secure him insider status.

In contemporary society, characterized by the adage “picture or it didn’t happen,” luxury is probably more indicative of status than of financial wealth, comfort, or experiential value. When Greg Hirsch, portrayed by Nicholas Braun, arrives for Logan Roy’s birthday celebration accompanied by a date carrying a $2,890 Burberry tote, it raises an early red flag among Succession’s elite, who promptly trash the bag as “ludicrously capacious.” “What is contained within?” Footwear suitable for metro travel? “Her lunch pail?” inquires Tom Wambsgans, portrayed by Matthew Macfadyen. “Greg, it is abhorrent.” It is immense. It might be utilized for camping. It might be slid across the floor following a bank heist.

The internet has been inundated with discussions about the exchange as a blatant exhibition of elitism, a critique of fashion, and, naturally, the intrinsic worth of the bag itself. Individuals on social media have promptly designated their accessories as “ludicrously capacious,” while news outlets have swiftly participated in the humor by promoting the most capacious bags of the season. Simultaneously, many are indicating the resurgence of the "old money" aesthetic, labeling the "quiet luxury" style as a significant trend to observe in 2023. The intrigue of the moment's impact lies not in its extensive reach—since any widely popular program is likely to become meme-worthy rapidly—but in the divergent emotions to the bag, which illuminate the fragmentation of luxury itself.

Culture perpetually fragments, with fissures deepening and becoming increasingly reflective as each year progresses in the digital realm. In the nascent phase of Instagram, the emergence of "hipster" culture prompted individuals to strive intensely for an alternative identity. ‘Normcore’, a style predicated on simplicity and a repudiation of individuality, emerged as a response to a culture fixated on distinction. One group attained status by engaging with prevailing pop culture, whereas the other achieved it by a deliberate and self-aware disregard for it.

HBO’s Succession poster

Currently, as social media's influence permeates all aspects of our life, luxury experiences a comparable phenomenon. On one side is Emily, establishing her presence on social media with her bold patterns and affinity for the absurd (albeit not necessarily extensive). The Roy twins don Loro Piana footwear, $500 baseball caps, and an array of "investment normcore" attire. Both parties are attired to express divergent ideologies regarding luxury; however, each simultaneously reinforces luxury as an unequivocal indicator of rank. Even in Succession, opulence does not require ostentation; it remains a display of wealth nonetheless. In a media environment that compels individuals to perpetually articulate their identities, our choices about the expression of luxury reflect our aspirations for self-identity. Where luxury was formerly defined by scarcity and exclusivity, the term has now evolved into something fundamentally different, with its influence extending in all directions. Choosing to be an Emily or a Roy is only a matter of preference; nevertheless, in 2023, both options are luxurious.

This essay was authored by Gabriela Serpa Royo, Behavioral Analyst at Canvas8.