In-Depth Analysis: TAG Heuer's Guy Bove on the Iconic Models

TAG Heuer Creative Director Guy Bove discusses our fixation on innovation and expresses his enthusiasm for the significance of details.

In horology, careers may extend over decades, excluding families that possess their own brands. Engravers and polishing specialists may be employed by manufacturers or specialized producers for over 20 years. This implies that during the duration of your ownership of a specific watch, the artisans who crafted it may accompany you on your personal journey with that timepiece. This is undoubtedly a somewhat idealized concept, although it also pertains to the front-office personnel and occasionally even the executive leadership. Regardless of whether they occupy the same companies or responsibilities as when you initially encounter them, it is highly probable that they will sustain their presence in the industry throughout their careers.

This narrative commences with TAG Heuer's Designer in head, Guy Bove, as we first encountered him in 2006, during his tenure as head designer under Georges Kern at IWC. As previously said, his design for the tonneau-tortue Da Vinci continues to be one of our favorites. Throughout the years, he transitioned from IWC to Chopard, subsequently to Breitling with Kern, and ultimately to TAG Heuer. Although numerous recognizable individuals are present in the specialized timepiece industry, few relationships evolve into genuine friendships. Consequently, I shall forgo our customary procedure of retaining third-party voice. Such an action would be disingenuous regardless.

Guy Bove is undoubtedly a friend, and we experienced this acutely at Watches and Wonders Geneva, where we reunited after years of pandemic-induced separation. Time is generally constrained at such events, and I have come to realize after many years that I am primarily a concern of the marketing and communications departments. Notwithstanding this, Bove dedicated some time to me, for which I am appreciative, and provided several off-the-record remarks, which I regret having to omit. He is adept at employing nonverbal communication to express certain ideas, rendering any attempt to cite him futile. In response, I commend you, sir!

Bove has been actively involved with nearly every aspect of the current TAG Heuer collection, as he states. This does not imply that he is accountable for every TAG Heuer design, but rather that he has been comprehensively engaging with the brand's overarching design narrative. To comprehend his design vision at TAG Heuer, one need only examine the current Aquaracer timepieces, which he has stated are entirely transformed. However, the observer's perception may not recognize any significant revolution; Bove contends that a side-by-side comparison of the new Aquaracer and the 2015 model reveals clear distinctions, which is an undeniable fact. A meticulous examination reveals numerous nuanced distinctions between the current 43mm model and its predecessor, elucidating the disparate wearing experiences of the timepieces.

I acknowledge that I have not provided extensive commentary on Bove, as the interview is quite lengthy. It has been revised for clarity and to eliminate informal exchanges typically shared among friends, which I will refrain from including, esteemed reader. I have eliminated the questions to allocate more space for Bove’s responses. From my subjective perspective, I regard Bove as a creative of substantial integrity. He does not indiscriminately enter any collection seeking to leave his imprint universally. Simultaneously, he is rather ambivalent about the trend of modern reissues. This is evident in the TAG Heuer Tribute to Reference 844, which we thoroughly analyzed in issue #61 last year. Bove suggested a method to achieve commercial success for the watch, which aligns with TAG Heuer's intention to focus on the future rather than nostalgically attempting to reclaim past achievements.

Consequently, we will entrust Bove with advancing the presentation, while acknowledging our distinct emphasis in this edition.

Regarding innovation, sustainability, and the collaborative development with La Joux Perret for the Aquaracer Solargraph…

The watch possesses all the benefits of quartz, devoid of its drawbacks. There is no need for concern regarding a battery. It is unnecessary to open the seals to replace the battery. The watch requires no physical interaction for years, alleviating concerns around battery depletion. Exposing the Solargraph to sunlight for 10 seconds initiates its operation, while two minutes of exposure will sustain it for an entire day. The TH50-00 movement achieves a full charge with less than 24 hours of sunlight exposure; however, in practical terms, this necessitates leaving it in sunlight for several days. The remarkable feature of the watch is its ability to continue functioning for six months when removed and placed aside. This is genuine invention and constitutes a significant aspect of TAG Heuer's heritage, which persists to this day. We aim to continue innovating in the quartz watch area, as it represents a significant market for us. Currently, our emphasis is on the innovative aspect of this watch; nevertheless, you are correct in noting that sustainability is also a significant factor—there is no need to manage batteries, dispose of them, or extract additional minerals for new batteries. It is excellent!

Regarding the Aquaracer line as a whole…

While we aimed to preserve the commendable aspects of past Aquaracers, we nonetheless undertook significant modifications to the casing. When viewed laterally, in comparison to the previous model (2015), the horns are significantly shorter and more vertical. We have incorporated the facet from the original 844, which reconfigures the profile view of the watch. It appears to be an exceptionally active sports watch. We extensively adjusted the proportions to provide an optimal fit on the wrist. The Superdiver, depicted above, is arguably one of the slimmest professional dive watches now in existence, capable of withstanding water resistance up to 1,000 meters. In this specific model, measuring 45mm, we endeavored to provide an optimal fit on a human wrist. The Aquaracer 200 pertains to human-powered activities, distinct from motorsports in other categories, and encompasses outdoor pursuits as well. I am uncertain about your activities during your lunch break; for instance, you might engage in skiing or rock climbing. The Aquaracer 200 is sufficiently robust for your adventures and can seamlessly slide inside your shirt cuff once returning to work.

On the Monaco Gulf… 

It is evident that we have not executed a comprehensive redesign; this is a limited edition adaption. The inquiry pertains to how we might alter the Gulf to resemble Monaco; considering the shape of Monaco Gulf, it is analogous to our existing range. Upon closer examination, it is indeed a markedly distinct entity. We aimed to ascertain the underlying mechanisms of Monaco – my apologies for the pun! The interaction between circles and squares is evident on the dial and also on the side of the case, which features a circular arch within a rectangular form. We have utilized square chronograph counters in light blue and orange, which are visible to all but the visually impaired. The dial features a sunray-brushed navy blue center circle and a flat navy blue square exterior; Gulf also utilized navy blue in addition to light blue. The situation continues beyond that point. At the 12 o’clock position on the dial, there is a 60 instead of the hour markers, which is characteristic of the Monaco. The colors extend onto the strap, and the movement features an orange column wheel. It constitutes a genuine collaboration between us and Gulf.

Regarding the challenge of collaborating with classic designs…

Upon acquiring an icon, such as the Monaco or the Aquaracer, there are several perspectives from which one can approach the intellectual task. One may express a preference for the novel over the obsolete; one may exhibit trepidation regarding alterations; or one may inquire into the intentions of the individuals associated with the brand during the watch's original creation. I prefer the final option. Typically, it is not possible to consult the individuals who originally worked on the watch, as they have passed away; nevertheless, Jack (Heuer) remains alive. For him, it was entirely focused on clarity.

Certain timepieces exhibit significant evolution, perhaps excessively so, across various brands. At other instances, it is evident that they were apprehensive of making contact with anything. It commences with an inquiry, as previously stated. It is really about comprehending TAG Heuer's intentions at any specific moment. The 2015 version of the Aquaracer contains numerous commendable features; yet, the brand is currently pursuing a different trajectory, necessitating an inquiry into how to align the watch with the company's evolving orientation.

On the Carrera Plasma… 

The amusing aspect of this watch lies in its automobile association. Car manufacturers deploy camouflaged prototypes on racetracks for testing purposes. The camouflage serves as the inspiration. What distinguishes this is our utilization of diamonds for camouflage, a rarity in automotive applications. We aimed to challenge limits and demonstrate the potential of cultivating diamonds, shaping them, and ensuring their precise fitting onto casings. Some diamonds are embedded in the case to display multiple faces, resulting in more intricacy regarding the facets. The polycrystalline diamond dial, a variant of the panda dial, is unprecedented in its black and white diamond composition; it is crafted as a singular piece. The concept was not that profound as to allude to asphalt or Formula 1 tires, contrary to your assumption (I believed both the casing and dial were inspired by racing themes – Ed). The crown is a solitary diamond, and we posed two inquiries: firstly, whether this could be accomplished, and secondly, how it would be affixed to the watch. We accomplished it, and the small shield visible in the diamond crown illustrates its connection to the movement.