Hands-On Spinnaker x/ seconde/ seconde's "Fifty Phantoms" Limited Edition Steely

Evaluating the duo's third collaborative watch, which is the inaugural model to use a metal bracelet.

Spinnaker

As Halloween approaches, Spinnaker has reintroduced a collaborative watch with Parisian designer Romaric André, recognized as /seconde/seconde/. This release marks their third project centered on the "Fifty Phantoms" theme, serving as a fascinating continuation of the "phantom" concept initiated in 2023. Spinnaker, renowned for its unparalleled innovation in collaborative endeavors, and /seconde/seconde/ once again unite horological artistry with ethereal playfulness.

The 2025 Edition introduces, for the first time, two distinct case dimensions, marking a substantial departure from the original "Fifty Phantoms" and the 2024 "Phantom Blue" version that I reviewed last year. Collectors may now select between the compact Phantom Steel (40mm) and the expansive Phantom White (43mm). The 40mm Phantom Steel is equipped with the dependable M-MIY-9015-D3 Japan Automatic caliber and features a small case thickness of 12.9mm, whereas the 43mm Phantom White utilizes the M-SII-NH35-D3 Japan Automatic caliber and has a thickness of 13.9mm. Both exhibit a newly crafted sunray-brushed bezel that emulates the phantom design, along with an anti-reflective sapphire lens. The fundamental design philosophy focuses on spectral mischief, humor, and converting the dial into a thought-provoking medium. This year's release features a new spectral gray dial, showcasing the distinctive "phantom" motif with several light apparitions that illuminate in the dark, accompanied by radiant indices and hands. The diminutive ghost patterns have been reinterpreted with a more rounded shape, while the bezel is a significant feature, now exhibiting a sinuous form that evokes the floating, flowing edges of sheet ghosts. This complete steel construction, from bezel to bracelet, with silvery hues on the dial, significantly enhances the ethereal ambiance. The bezel's markers and numbers are likewise luminescent.

Spinnaker

The brand states in their press release, “Hidden surprises lie within” – the ethereal ambiance transcends the watch and dial. An intriguing feature is the supplementary white strap that emits a dazzling glow when exposed to UV radiation. This meticulous attention to detail encompasses both the case and the caseback as well. The rotor, observable through the transparent caseback, is inscribed with tally marks and a pair of eyes; the tally sums precisely 50, reflecting its designation “Fifty Phantoms,” while the rotor itself rotates playfully, obscuring and unveiling the internal mechanisms. Both models provide formidable technological specifications, ensuring a water resistance of 15 ATM. The timepieces feature an enhanced bead-of-rice steel bracelet and include an extra nylon strap.

The selection of 40mm versus 43mm will considerably influence the sensation on the wrist, enabling collectors to choose between a more subdued appearance or a more pronounced, contemporary profile. Although 40mm exceeds the optimal size for my 140mm wrist circumference, the watch appears and feels unexpectedly smaller when worn—an observation I attribute primarily to the steel band rather than the rigid rubber straps from the previous two generations. The new spectral gray display presents a novel interpretation of the phantom effect introduced in the previous blue and black dials. The Phantom Steel (40mm) is priced at $525 USD for the initial batch, however the bigger Phantom White (43mm) is available at a more affordable price of $475 USD. The initial batch has sold out during pre-order, and a subsequent pre-order opportunity will be announced shortly. For further information, monitor Spinnaker’s website.