From San Francisco to Paris: The Denim Insurrection in Fashion

From Levi’s rugged origins to the heights of couture, denim has transformed from workwear to luxury fashion’s rebellious canvas.

Born in the gold rush and immortalised by Levi’s, denim is the fabric of San Francisco’s rebellious spirit. Originally a symbol of workwear, it has been redefined by luxury maisons, demonstrating its adaptability beyond traditional denim. From John Galliano's dramatic denim designs at Dior to the timeless allure of the Canadian tuxedo, denim has transformed into a high-fashion emblem. The Fall/Winter 2025 designs further expand the limits, presenting denim in haute couture, tailoring, and unconventional forms. What originated as an innovation for the American laborer evolved into the emblem of advancement. Worn by miners, cowboys, revolutionaries, rock stars, presidents, and ordinary individuals, these utilitarian garments served as attire for both labor and daily life.

 Origins of Denim: Levi's and San Francisco

The origin of denim traces back to San Francisco, where Levi Strauss, in 1873, in collaboration with tailor Jacob Davis, secured the patent for the inaugural pair of riveted denim jeans. Originally crafted as resilient apparel for miners and laborers, Levi's swiftly evolved into a lasting American emblem. Initially, what began as functional clothing attracted the interest of designers who recognized the subversive elements inherent in denim. Denim's evolution from utility to style reflected a wider societal transition that celebrated the essence of renewal.

 Nonetheless, the triumph of denim's evolution in fashion did not conclude with Levi's. What originated as a necessity for laborers soon attracted the interest of designers who saw its potential to transcend jeans. Its robust functionality rendered it an emblem of counterculture movements, including rock icons, runway inspirations, and ultimately, a medium for luxury fashion innovation. Luxury designers elevated denim from its working-class origins by incorporating meticulous tailoring, embellishments, and avant-garde designs. Currently, denim transcends its origins as a workwear essential and has evolved into a symbol of reinvention, perpetually reinterpreted by the foremost design houses globally.

 The "Canadian Tuxedo"

The term “Canadian Tuxedo” is said to originate from a legendary fashion moment involving American singer Bing Crosby in 1951. Crosby and his friend were reportedly denied entry into a luxury Vancouver hotel because he was wearing an all-denim outfit. When Levi’s caught wind of the incident, they designed a custom denim tuxedo jacket for him, complete with a leather patch inside that read, “Notice to All Hotel Men: He may be wearing Levi’s, but he’s still a gentleman.” Fast forward a few decades to the 2001 American Music Awards when Britney Spears wore a patchwork denim gown alongside Justin Timberlake in a Canadian tuxedo and matching cowboy hat that denim-on-denim styling became something of a cultural phenomenon that went against conventional sartorial codes of dressing.

How Luxury Fashion Houses Redefined This Workwear Staple

Denim has long been associated with its utilitarian roots, a fabric born out of necessity for the working class. Today, beyond its everyday function, denim is no longer confined to rugged workwear or off-duty staples, denim has found its place in couture and high fashion, where its rebellious spirit and versatility continue to challenge conventions.

Dior

Christian Dior by John Galliano circa 2000

John Galliano was the one capable of transcending denim's working-class origins. During his stay at Dior in the early 2000s, Galliano showcased exaggerated, distressed, and embroidered denim designs on the runway, demonstrating that this modest fabric could compete in haute couture. His designs integrated Victorian corsetry, elaborate beading, and expansive forms, elevating denim beyond the domain of casual attire. In his hands, denim evolved into a vehicle for narrative, converting its robust utility into a medium for imagination and theatricality.

Upon assuming leadership at Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri presented a more feminine interpretation, prioritizing realism over fantasy, but preserving historical connections. In the Fall/Winter 2017 collection for Christian Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri adeptly perpetuated the practice of reimagining denim, expanding its limits to link the fabric's utilitarian roots with haute couture. For Chiuri, denim transcended its role as a mere workwear essential; it served as a conduit for examining femininity and history within the context of luxury design. Her utilization of denim was simultaneously subtle and groundbreaking, presenting tailored denim garments with a uniquely haute couture methodology. Corseted denim dresses, adorned with elaborate embroidery, have elevated the previously coarse fabric into a representation of contemporary sophistication, harkening back to history while solidifying denim's role as a fundamental element in luxury fashion discourse. By integrating the practicality of denim with exquisite couture tailoring, Chiuri revolutionized the fabric's position in high fashion, demonstrating its capacity to encapsulate the rebellious essence of its working-class origins while simultaneously embodying the elegance of Dior's heritage.

 Schiaparelli

Daniel Roseberry's Fall 2021 Couture collection for Schiaparelli represented a further advancement in the application of denim within luxury fashion. Renowned for his audacious reinterpretations of the Schiaparelli legacy, Roseberry adopted an unorthodox method with denim by upcycling vintage 1980s Levi’s jeans — a reference to the fabric’s utilitarian origins — and deconstructing them into couture garments that merged streetwear with haute couture. In this collection, Roseberry employed denim as a medium for surrealist creation, paying tribute to Elsa Schiaparelli’s penchant for merging the unexpected with the avant-garde. The denim items were carefully redesigned with detailed artistry, featuring anatomical elements – a hallmark of Schiaparelli’s surrealist legacy. Roseberry adopted this motif, enhancing the denim with intricate, anatomy-inspired embroidery illustrating human figures and skeletal frameworks. These features were not only visually captivating but also contributed intellectual depth, as they suggested the deconstruction and reconstruction of the body, akin to the fabric of denim pants.

 Jean-Paul Gaultier

In Jean Paul Gaultier’s Fall/Winter 2022-2023 Haute Couture collection, guest designer Olivier Rousteing reinterpreted denim, elevating this commonplace material into haute couture masterpieces that honored Gaultier’s tradition while incorporating his unique aesthetic. Rousteing's methodology entailed dismantling conventional denim garments and reassembling them with elaborate tailoring and opulent decorations. A remarkable combination showcased a tiny dress made of distressed denim, embellished with tonal pheasant feathers that elegantly flowed from the bust and throat, establishing a compelling juxtaposition between the rigid denim and the gentle, fluid motion of the feathers. A notable item was a pair of denim overalls, completely embroidered with pearls that mimic caviar, exemplifying the exquisite craftsmanship characteristic of high couture.

This design blurred the distinction between function and elegance, transforming the modest workwear essential into an art form. Rousteing also reinterpreted Gaultier's emblematic marinière (Breton stripe) motif, incorporating it into the denim outfits. He converted the traditional striped sailor shirt into a denim bandage dress, effortlessly merging casual and formal components. Rousteing’s ethereal designs showcased denim's adaptability and capacity to surpass its functional roots, solidifying its status in haute couture.

 Ronald van der Kemp

Ronald van der Kemp, a designer committed to sustainability and workmanship, transcends the conventional boundaries of denim, demonstrating that this robust fabric can rival the opulence of silk or brocade. RVDK meticulously upcycles and employs avant-garde tailoring to convert denim into demi-couture statements, integrating sustainability into his premium fashion business. Van der Kemp frequently used deadstock denim and antique jeans, dismantling and recreating them into sculptural and unconventional forms. His methodology contests the idea that couture must be immaculate and fragile – his denim designs incorporate raw edges, patchwork techniques, and bold forms, underscoring his conviction that luxury and sustainability can coexist.

 In his Fall 2019 Couture show, he reconfigured discarded jeans into power-shouldered jackets draped over voluminous skirts, merging ruggedness with 1980s-inspired glamor. In his Spring 2021 showcase, he elevated denim to eveningwear by presenting an asymmetrical patchwork gown embellished with elaborate beadwork and embroidery. His Fall 2022 collection featured a corset-detailed denim trench coat, structured high-waisted jeans with pronounced pleating, and layered tulle skirts. In Spring 2023, a sculpted denim bustier featuring architectural folds exemplified his avant-garde draping skills. Ronald van der Kemp’s utilization of repurposed denim transcends mere aesthetic preference, delivering a compelling commentary on sustainability and demonstrating that fashion's most accessible fabric can be reimagined as a symbol of both reinvention and luxury.

 Balmain

Olivier Rousteing drew inspiration from Serge Gainsbourg's relaxed aesthetic for Balmain's Spring 2014 Ready-to-Wear collection, utilizing denim in novel manners. The collection showcased denim garments adorned with gold chain embellishments, including jackets and skirts, merging the fabric's practical origins with Balmain's distinctive ornamentation. This collection showcased Rousteing’s ability to reinterpret denim in the realm of premium fashion.

Olivier Rousteing presented a laid-back yet luxurious interpretation of denim in Balmain's Spring 2017 Menswear presentation. Models wore light-wash denim outfits, featuring jeans combined with wrap skirts and covered with beige suede jackets. The collection showcased vivid colors and elaborate decorations, highlighting Rousteing’s talent for merging casual materials with opulent accents. The Fall/Winter 2017 collection furthered this investigation, showcasing damaged biker jeans and denim jackets embellished with Western-style studs and sequins. This collection demonstrated Balmain's capacity to integrate robust denim with haute couture aspects, affirming the fabric's reputation as a multifaceted and opulent material.

Chanel

At Chanel's autumn 2016 presentation in Paris, the French Maison unveiled numerous denim designs, marking a deviation from its typical offerings. The late Karl Lagerfeld integrated a modern aspect by combining the material with pink fuchsia tweed. Denim incorporated into fitted jackets, handbags, caps, and gloves, and was combined with tweed, silk, embroidery, and pearls. The collection was grounded in the design house's identity while emanating a modern look infused with athletic characteristics.

Under the creative leadership of Virginie Viard, Chanel's Resort 2023 collection featured denim in items such as jackets, wide-leg jeans, and structured outerwear, each reinterpreted with opulent details that merged casual attire with haute couture. Chanel's interpretation of denim transcended its practical qualities, aiming to redefine it within the realm of high couture. The tweed denim jackets were meticulously tailored and enhanced with distinctive Chanel elements, including gold-button embellishments, streamlined shapes, and intricate stitching. These design features infused the denim with a refinement that transformed it from workwear to unmistakably high fashion.