Explore The Story of Early Roger Dubuis Watches

From his early tenure at Patek Philippe until the establishment of his own innovative brand, Roger Dubuis designed distinctive clocks, rendering his initial creations a concealed treasure in the realm of watch collecting.

Among Swiss watchmaking legends, the narrative of Roger Dubuis epitomizes horological craftsmanship and commercial zeal. Born in 1938, Dubuis commenced his watchmaking career in the 1950s with Longines, thereafter discovering his true vocation at Patek Philippe, where he dedicated nearly two decades to mastering the intricacies of complexities. A current trend indicates that individuals who have worked at Patek and subsequently established their own brands are gaining attention from collectors, exemplified by Laurent Ferrier and Rexhep Rexhepi.

Although I have consistently admired the case forms and dial configurations of Roger Dubuis, I never anticipated becoming an owner (full disclosure). Everything transformed abruptly, as is frequently the case, when my esteemed friend and dealer, Tim Green from Subdial in London, contacted me. It was merely a solitary image. This exquisite perpetual calendar, Hommage 40, with a lacquered white display and an off-center dial arrangement. I was captivated instantly. Watches, for me, elicit a definitive 'Hell yeah' or 'no'. It cannot be intermediate. I have discovered that it is a favorable situation when you promptly begin strategizing how to actualize it. Even if it entails liquidating the family assets (without informing the family, naturally). Several weeks later, the watch became mine (this occurred in 2020), during the zenith of the watch market's boom period. The watch emanated vintage allure and elegance. Absence of double anti-reflective coating (common in contemporary timepieces) – a patinated dial – a uniquely designed case produced in limited quantities – just 28 (corresponding to the bench number where Mr. Dubuis was employed at Patek). These are but a selection of the attributes that render Roger Dubuis from the 2000s intriguing and potentially a discreet investment for collectors.

The early years at Patek Philippe were crucial in developing Dubuis's horological philosophy. While employed in the complexities department, he cultivated a profound comprehension of exquisite watchmaking that would subsequently shape the identity of his own brand. During the 1970s and 1980s, Dubuis distinguished himself as an independent watchmaker, gaining acclaim for his expertise in restoring ancient watches and crafting bespoke complications for collectors and recognized brands.

In 1995, at the age of 57, Dubuis made the audacious choice to found his own manufacture. Collaborating with Carlos Dias, a former designer for Franck Muller, he aimed to establish a Geneva-based company that would reconcile classic Swiss watchmaking with modern design. This enterprise would evolve into Roger Dubuis, a name that would soon be emblematic of avant-garde horological innovation.

The formative years of Roger Dubuis were characterized by remarkable ingenuity and technical expertise. The brand rapidly attained fame for its unique look, defined by skeletonised dials, unconventional case designs, and complex complexities. The firm particularly pledged adherence to the rigorous criteria of the Geneva Seal, a distinction primarily linked to Patek Philippe at that time. This dedication to excellence was most apparent in the Hommage collection, regarded by many as the apex of the brand's accomplishments.

The H37 and H40 Perpetual Calendar, manufactured about 2000, demonstrates the brand's initial expertise. These watches embody an ideal convergence of collectibility: restricted production quantities, historical importance, and outstanding craftsmanship. The Hommage line exemplifies Dubuis's capacity to harmonize traditional design features with contemporary innovation, securing both the Geneva Seal and Observatory certification — a monument to its exceptional accuracy and craftsmanship. The white gold case showcased a unique polished, concave bezel and elegant lugs, while the luminous white lacquered dial had an intricate perpetual calendar mechanism. The watch's principal attributes comprised a color-coded year indication, moon phase display, and day-month apertures, all driven by the movement RD5739. Monopusher chronographs typically command prices above £40,000, although perpetuals may be acquired for less £20,000 with some fortune. To my mind, it is absurdly disproportionate in value.

In 2008, the brand's trajectory will undergo a substantial change with the Richemont Group's acquisition of a majority share. This acquisition offered essential resources and distribution channels, although it also signified the onset of a new phase that would progressively diverge from the founder's initial goal. Roger Dubuis relinquished daily operations in the mid-2000s, however continued to serve as an ambassador until his death in 2017.

The contemporary Roger Dubuis brand has significantly transformed from its inception, forging alliances with luxury motor firms like as Lamborghini and Pirelli. Although these agreements provide advantages, they signify a considerable divergence from the brand's original horological emphasis. This metamorphosis has augmented the allure of early Roger Dubuis pieces among discerning collectors, who regard them as relics from a golden era of independent watchmaking.

The legacy of Roger Dubuis exemplifies the intricate equilibrium between tradition and innovation in haute horlogerie. His progression from apprentice to master watchmaker, culminating in the establishment of his own manufacturing, exemplifies the entrepreneurial ethos that has historically propelled the Swiss watch industry. Although the brand named after him has progressed beyond his initial vision, the watches crafted under his direct influence remain alluring to collectors and enthusiasts who value their distinctive blend of technical mastery and innovative design.

Today, early Roger Dubuis timepieces exemplify a crucial era in contemporary horology, when independent craftsmen could still influence an industry progressively controlled by major luxury conglomerates. Their scarcity, excellence, and historical importance secure their status among valuable timepieces, while their groundbreaking designs persist in shaping modern watchmaking. Ultimately, Roger Dubuis's most significant accomplishment may reside not alone in the timepieces he crafted, but in the lasting legacy of quality and innovation he established.