Olivier Polge, Chanel's Master Perfumer, on Shaping the Brand's Olfactory Heritage

Chanel's chief perfumer Olivier Polge imparts insights into his creative methodology and additional topics during his inaugural visit to Singapore.

Chanel’s master perfumer Olivier Polge (Photo: Courtesy of Chanel)

When Chanel's in-house perfumer Olivier Polge is engaged in his craft, one will not detect any trace of fragrance on him. He abstains from wearing perfume during work hours to refine his olfactory sensitivities, guaranteeing that nothing disrupts his creative process.

Devoid of a personal fragrance, he remains clear-minded. Polge conveyed this knowledge during his recent inaugural visit to Singapore, when he participated in a regional event commemorating the Chanel N°5 fragrance line.

Since its inception in 1921, the N°5 perfume has been a groundbreaking scent, renowned for its innovative combination of floral and aldehyde notes, as well as being the inaugural perfume introduced by a fashion brand. Polge has perpetuated this legacy. Among his several inventions for Chanel is the contemporary N°5 L’Eau – his interpretation of the brand's most renowned fragrance.

Since assuming his position as Chanel’s master perfumer in 2015, succeeding his father Jacques, he has created 22 new perfumes for the maison, including this year’s Comète, the newest entry in the Les Exclusifs de Chanel collection.

Polge was in town recently for a regional event celebrating the Chanel N°5 fragrance range (Photo: Courtesy of Chanel)

Upon reflecting on his initial impressions of Singapore, Polge articulated astonishment at the city's verdant scenery and serenity. “I anticipated a highly urbanized environment, yet it is considerably more expansive and verdant than I envisioned.” He remarked, "It is also exceedingly tranquil."

In a succinct session with GRAZIA Singapore, Polge articulates his perspectives on the influence of culture on the perception and reception of perfumes, scent layering, and his creative methodology.

Singapore is a culturally rich locale, inhabited by individuals from many backgrounds. Do you believe that cultural variety affects the perceptions and reception of fragrances?

Olivier Polge (OP): I believe it exerts a significant influence. I value diversity, particularly in our interconnected world. Ultimately, scent constitutes a cultural artifact. Although Chanel is internationally acclaimed, its origins are embedded in French or European culture. In crafting fragrances, we originate from France for a global audience; yet, we have observed, if unintentionally, that certain aromas have a greater appeal in particular nations. This is quite intriguing to me, especially when examining the data. Climate significantly influences the perception and reception of scents. I resided in New York for five years, where the summers are exceedingly hot and humid—conditions seldom encountered in Europe, which is characterized by a drier climate. I observed that specific smells are more suitable in certain climates than in others.

Timeless yet ever-evolving, Chanel No. 5 remains the ultimate symbol of sophistication, from the iconic aldehydic floral parfum to its modern reinterpretations (Photo: Courtesy of Chanel)

Do you personally endorse the concept of possessing a trademark fragrance?

OP: I contend that fragrance is intrinsically linked to an individual's personality. I firmly believe in possessing a singular unique fragrance for me.

What is your opinion on the practice of layering perfumes, which has become a prevalent method for crafting a distinctive scent?

OP: I cannot recommend it, as I produce scents that I deem complete and capable of standing independently. However, I also recognize the existence of cultural subtleties. For instance, I have visited the Middle East, where there exists a cultural practice of personal fragrance application. A fashion designer can never predict how individuals would combine the garments they make, and the same applies to a perfumer; this unpredictability is one of the shocks I embrace. I personally would not layer scents, although I comprehend the rationale behind such a choice.

Each variation of the Chanel No. 5 fragrance embodies a different facet of elegance, ensuring its legacy endures across generations (Photo: Courtesy of Chanel)

In what manner does Chanel adapt to contemporary trends while maintaining its essence?

Chanel's strength resides in our comprehensive oversight of the creative process, encompassing the ownership of our formulations and the procurement and refinement of raw ingredients. Every perfumer transmits their knowledge, guaranteeing continuity while permitting innovation. We have collaborated with farmers in Grasse to develop premium flowers, additionally diversifying into new crops such as tuberose and iris. This methodical technique guarantees uniformity while allowing us to investigate new horizons.

Trends cannot be overlooked; however, they should be addressed with careful consideration. At Chanel, each creation must reflect our legacy while responding to contemporary demands. This equilibrium is an asset, enabling us to innovate while remaining faithful to our unique aesthetic. A more profound history affords us greater liberty to reinterpret it.

Could you encapsulate your own philosophy of your work in a single sentence?

OP: In a single word, it would be creation. It is never reproduction. Chanel will never designate a scent using the name of a raw substance. We do not aim to replicate nature. We are ever undergoing transformation. I adore transformation. I would include that in the concepts of creation and transformation. Two terms!