CEO of H. Moser & Cie: Candid Discourse about Horology

We converse with H. Moser & Cie CEO Edouard Meylan regarding crucial aspects of horology. As usual, he does not hold back.

Image: H. Moser & Cie

Few persons in the timepiece industry are as distinctive as Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie. Meylan, a proponent of candid discourse in Swiss watchmaking, has always challenged norms, even producing timepieces that satirize traditional traditions. “We Swiss are typically characterized by X, Y, and Z…” Meylan has usually framed various things by stating, "As a Swiss individual, I can assert this."

This is excellent for reporters specializing in watches regarding interviews. Frequently, the difficulty lies in determining which items we can print without antagonizing other brands, while not being the originators of the assertions. Follow-up questions are largely impractical as they necessitate the violation of specific codes in watchmaking to emphasize particular aspects. We acknowledge that we have omitted brand mentions from prior Meylan interviews; however, we will refrain from doing so this time. For seasoned professionals like myself, an interview with Meylan evokes nostalgia reminiscent of the era of the late Nicolas G. Hayek and Luigi Macaluso. Initially, the sole one who audaciously expressed himself was the irascible Jean-Claude Biver.

In an age where the notoriously secretive characteristics of the watch industry—often an unwarranted and burdensome hindrance—are being criticized in the sake of sustainability, we believe that more industry leaders should align themselves with this cause. Mechanical timepieces are sustainable under certain interpretations of that inherently contentious term; yet, the industry undermines itself by obfuscation.

Initially, the issue of Swiss Made arises, and it is evident that Meylan is unequivocal in this regard. We might envision Meylan regarding us with his unwavering look and elucidating the inaccuracies in our perceptions of the possibilities of Swiss Made. However, such discussion is reserved for another occasion, and we are confident it will occur. Meylan currently possesses several reflections regarding the prevailing green trend in the watchmaking industry. As the most outspoken chief executive in independent watchmaking advocating for transparency—perhaps with the exception of Code41—we deemed it essential to obtain Meylan’s viewpoint. In its entirety, rather than merely a citation.

We received the information that H. Moser & Cie has surpassed the down watch market in 2020; congrats! What factors contributed to your 24% growth, if our figures are accurate?

It encompasses significantly more. The market declined by 22%, but we had a 12% increase, resulting in a net difference of 34%. I believe it is not solely our effort; undoubtedly, the team's diligent work has been instrumental in revitalizing this brand since the Meylan family's acquisition in 2012. However, I believe there is a change in the behavior of collectors who are now considering independent brands. Owing partially to social media and the excitement surrounding the diverse timepieces. Upon acquiring all desired items from major brands, collectors subsequently seek out independent labels. They are seeking the next rarity. What constitutes rare watches? This is the role of independents, and Moser's leadership in this context is undoubtedly advantageous for us.

What impact did the epidemic have on manufacturing operations? While we appreciate the resilience of the watchmaking industry, we are concerned about the potential risks to individuals' lives and health in the production of watches.

Stating that we may be endangering lives is a significant assertion; I would never allow my personnel in manufacturing to jeopardize their safety for watch production. We adhere to all regulations established by the Swiss government, which are quite stringent, ensuring the safety of all individuals. Numerous protocols exist to address COVID-19. We experienced isolated cases but never a cluster. We must exercise extreme caution, particularly when we have individuals working remotely. We offer considerable flexibility to our employees and have significant trust in them, and I believe we have handled effectively. We must ensure that we provide the new individuals with accurate instructions on the appropriate actions to take.

Indeed, we have been informed of the growth. Elucidate the rationale for the decision to augment personnel. Was it challenging?

While it is challenging, it is a more straightforward decision than terminating employees. Regarding risk, I am aware that my order books are fully populated until 2023, thus we are secure. I possess a clear understanding of our production capabilities and marketable offerings. It is increasing monthly; we have never experienced such visibility. The decision to expand is straightforward. Adapting the organizational structure is challenging. Today, we must exhibit a higher level of professionalism. While agility and responsiveness are important, reaching a scale of shipping several hundred watches monthly necessitates a distinct logistical approach. It is necessary to implement additional processes. Individuals must alter their perspectives in some instances. This process has been gradual, but it is now gaining momentum. We are aware of the areas requiring enhancement and improvement.

We were captivated by the Endeavour Centre Seconds x Seconde/Seconde/, a piece renowned for its humor and the considerable attention it has garnered. Was this a timepiece that the market desired?

Certainly not! At H. Moser & Cie, we assert that our objective is to disrupt the market by adopting unconventional approaches. Sufficient mainstream brands exist in the market to fulfill the remaining needs. As an independent brand, we must adopt a distinctive approach to differentiate ourselves. We do not resemble MB&F and Urwerk, which produce timepieces so extraordinary that they convey their own narrative. We must explore other methods to convey our concepts and philosophy while preserving the classicism, elegance, and traditional essence of our timepieces. That is a challenging task, and likely H. Moser & Cie is the one entity capable of accomplishing it.

What is the method we employ? Symbolism. This is an object with which we engaged. The Swiss Mad watch represented a symbol; the Swiss Alp Watch Zzzz served as a symbol; the Moser Nature watch, which addressed sustainability, functioned as a symbol. Seconde/Seconde/ was an endeavor we aspired to undertake (in a similar context). It was an endeavor we had desired to pursue for years, and one that the brand had indeed communicated about.

Seconde/Seconde/ urges the cessation of excessive markings on wristwatch dials, likening them to genuine tools upon which individuals' lives rely. Timepieces do not navigate ships, and pilots do not utilize flyback chronographs for aerial navigation. Contemporary timepieces are masterpieces of artistry. Cease the inclusion of branding messages, instructions, and certificates on the dial. I observe certain watches accompanied with comprehensive instructions and certifications, akin to what is provided for instruments, as it is crucial to possess confidence in the item and to understand its operation. It is crucial for the user's survival. In this context, current mechanical timepieces represent an unnecessary luxury. An being intended to evoke emotion. This constitutes the definition of art.

At times, I believe the watch business is entrenched in the notion that an abundance of features on the dial correlates with increased sales or higher pricing. We endeavor to distance ourselves from it, and it is now firmly established that H. Moser & Cie aims to create works of art. We aimed to reinforce the concept in collaboration with Seconde/Seconde/.

I have been acquainted with the artist Romaric Andre for some time, and I appreciate his work. He possesses an exceptional ability to convey concepts through symbols, as evidenced by his Instagram. Several years prior, I extended an invitation for him to attend BaselWorld and utilize our booth to exhibit his creations; I conveyed that should he ever draw inspiration from our company, we would be eager to collaborate with him. Subsequently, he conceived the concept for the watch - his interpretation of H. Moser & Cie. The concept originated from him, not me, which is just what I appreciate. It aligns with our objectives and represents his perception of the brand. Launching it on April 1 was undoubtedly an enjoyable endeavor.

It was enjoyable, and were it not for the brand's repute, we could have been deceived! Regarding the inscriptions on the dial, including numerals and similar elements, this is an aspect that companies enjoy manipulating. Collectors react by enhancing specific models with select variants. How does H. Moser & Cie manipulate this, considering the dials exhibit such pristine and unequivocal minimalism?

Examine the escapement. Occasionally, there exists a concealed purple escapement, such as the purple balance wheel and balancing spring shown on the Venturer Small Seconds, which also showcases a purple fume dial, along with options in blue or green. It is not visible on the dial side, yet it exists. I anticipate that, at some future sale, somebody will remark, 'Ah, it was the exclusive series featuring a purple escapement, of which no one was aware.'

I believe that is more substantial than matters pertaining to signage and other non-functional components. I like these kind of secrets over superficial embellishments intended only to enhance the watch's appearance. This aligns more closely with our ideology – something more nuanced.

I anticipate that the transparent logo may resemble it. From its initial usage to potential diverse applications. Consider the possibility that the second version may exhibit reduced transparency or a similar characteristic. Such occurrences are anticipated if we succeed in further developing this brand.

You often remind us of the challenging periods experienced by H. Moser & Cie. This contrasts sharply with most other brands that predominantly highlight downsides when questioned. What motivates your inclination towards this?

I advocate for transparency. Swiss watchmaking adheres to numerous regulations; discussions regarding competitors, references to other inspiring companies, and criticisms are prohibited. I am open to discussing my preferences. I admire Jaeger-LeCoultre's achievements this year, as well as the dials produced by Swatch.

The identical phenomenon occurs in our work. At Watches & Wonders 2021, I saw numerous exceptional timepieces for which we manufactured the hairsprings; nevertheless, I am prohibited from discussing them. We produce 200,000 hairsprings annually, and not all of these are designated for our use. We communicate our actions involving Agenhor.

What is the reason for this? They are accomplishing remarkable feats. The appeal of H. Moser & Cie watches will remain unaffected. Conversely, collaborations are exhilarating. Likewise, many aspects of the brand's history may lack glamour, yet still remain integral to its narrative. We have experienced both the peaks and the valleys, and it is essential to recognize both. We are indifferent. H. Moser & Cie likely ceased operations in the 1980s and nearly faced extinction in 2012. H. Moser & Cie would likely be entirely distinct without this historical context.

Our proximity to bankruptcy necessitated innovative solutions despite financial constraints, resulting in significant learning experiences. We are currently experiencing growth, and I hope this trend persists. Although we are currently performing well, it is imperative to remain cautious – a notion I consider beneficial. We will not abruptly begin transporting individuals for large gatherings; that is not our approach. I consistently remind my colleagues that numerous factors lie outside our control. I anticipate our continued growth and believe it will persist.

This issue addresses sustainability in watches, featuring insights from brands on recycling and transparency. What is your viewpoint, and can a single brand truly take the lead in this matter?

I believe recycling is not the optimal solution, nor do I think it will be attributable to any single brand. Certification and openness are essential. The utilization of recycled materials appears to me as a form of greenwashing. Consider minimizing your carbon footprint and evaluating the sustainability of your supplier chain. The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) certification appears to be the most logical choice.

We invested two years and considerable effort in auditing to obtain this accreditation. This indicates that we now collaborate with RJC-certified suppliers, who are also committed to sustainable production practices. We incur a somewhat higher cost for certified sustainable gold, approximately 10%, and I question why more businesses do not adopt this practice.