Celebration of the 50th Anniversary of Girard-Perregaux Laureato

Girard-Perregaux commemorates the 50th anniversary of the Laureato with the Laureato FIFTY, showcasing the new Calibre 4800 and an enhanced, adjustable bracelet that honors the history of its 1975 emblem.

The contemporary Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty and the original model from 1975

Recall the Girard-Perregaux calibre 4800? The information is now public, allowing us to discuss the Laureato FIFTY, the newest version of a model that has been successful for Girard-Perregaux since 1975. Indeed, the date elucidates the nomenclature, and it may undoubtedly evoke thoughts of other timepieces that have commemorated analogous milestones in previous years. Marc Michel-Amadry, Managing Director of Girard-Perregaux, emphasizes that the Laureato was not simply a fashionable timepiece at its inception, but rather a pioneer of trends, which we shall discuss shortly.

Initially, what may one anticipate from the Girard-Perregaux Laureato FIFTY, hereafter referred to as the Laureato Fifty or just the Fifty? Indeed, the issue of the new movement is pertinent, which we have previously examined in considerable detail. In alignment with the significance of this watch, we shall commence this analysis with the remarkable bracelet, particularly the clasp. This is not intended as a disparagement, as the Fifty possesses a feature that other integrated bracelet watches lack: effortless fine adjustment without the need for tools. The triple folding clasp, comparable to all but the patented Chanel version, extends by 4mm as required. I admit I was concerned about perhaps damaging the watch while attempting to operate it; nevertheless, the band is sufficiently robust to withstand the stresses exerted by human hands.

For the time being, a historical context is necessary for a timepiece such as the Laureato Fifty, as its name inherently reflects its heritage. In 1975, the luxury sports watch was not perceived as fashionable, despite the Laureato epitomizing the era. The Laureato was promoted in Italy using imagery from The Graduate, as it epitomizes the watch for the accomplished gentleman. A graduate, as articulated by Michel-Amadry. Based on our prior Laureato experiences, with the most recent significant update being in 2016, we understand that the name was not included in the 1975 bundle. It was not only missing from the dial but also not designated in this manner, especially in the Italian market. Significantly, it was distinctive in the sports elegance category for introducing an in-house quartz movement.

Considering you are perusing this narrative, the concluding segment will be as surprising as a PG-13 film. Utilizing its GP350 calibre, Girard-Perregaux established the technical specifications for the forthcoming quartz era, and the collection would not have a mechanical movement until the 1990s (about 1995). Moreover, during a period that marked the rise of the watch designer as a significant influence, Girard-Perregaux opted for an in-house design for its 1975 launch. The design was not influenced by any nautical elements, and the brand has not disclosed whether any specific factors guided their design choices. Regarding the Laureato Fifty, Girard-Perregaux will only state the following:

“Unlike its contemporaries, such as Gérald Genta’s Royal Oak (1972), characterized by angles and screws, or the Nautilus (1976), which features a roundness reminiscent of a porthole and the traditional 'cushion' shape, it prioritizes precision, balance, and elegance.” Beginning in 1975, it represented a new, more sophisticated and nuanced luxury. This new invention is directly inspired by the original model, embodying faithfulness to the classic design while using advanced technologies.

Michel-Amadry compels us to delve deeper: “The Laureato Fifty embodies the essence – indeed, the quintessence – of the Laureato,” he stated. “It possesses an esteemed lineage, incorporates the latest enhancements in case finishing and design conception, and features the GP4800 movement, which is poised to endure for the next two decades.” Consequently, it is definitely the most distinguished Laureato edition to date.

The aforementioned does not imply that this is the sole significant Laureato, of course. The Fifty is a limited edition of 200; hence, all variations in the present catalogue will persist, as confirmed by a brief examination of the brand's website. Nonetheless, despite the innovations of the Girard-Perregaux Fifty, we believe its design will set the standard for timepieces measuring 39mm and smaller. The GP4800 movement is appropriately sized for the Fifty, measuring 9.8mm in thickness; hence, the larger Laureato variants will probably utilize alternative Girard-Perregaux movements, like the in-house GP01800.

On that topic, let us revisit the fit and feel, specifically addressing the bracelet, but not immediately. Although everything appears largely unchanged since the last update, Michel-Amadry informs us that significant alterations have occurred. A cursory examination of the photographs reveals that the 'GP' logo and the term 'Laureato' have been removed from the dial. This is undoubtedly significant and enhances the design's equilibrium, while feeling unusual due to its divergence. The dial retains a Clous de Paris pattern, however it is subtly distinct from that of other Laureato models, the exact differences of which are indiscernible without direct comparison to other variants. This limited edition includes a date function for those interested, including a tone-on-tone disc and an artistically framed aperture.

The bracelet differs from the present version, although retains the H-shaped links beside polished central links. Girard-Perregaux asserts that the H-links are shorter for enhanced comfort, indicating minimal movement between the links. All components are sufficiently secure and appropriately fitted, alleviating any concerns for hairy forearms. The links taper noticeably towards the clasp, which features the bridge logo on both the front and back in a subtle manner. This bracelet requires just interchangeability to surpass its competitors, which we assume still does not meet Girard-Perregaux's standards. The price of this bimetallic reference is atypical, now advertised at $41,200 or €28,100. It compares favorably with the standard production variants of gold ($76,700) and steel ($21,200) Laureato, as well as the previously listed competitors.