Buccellati Chronicles a Four-Generation Legacy of Artisanal Jewelry

Buccellati has remained steadfast in its jewellery concept, consistently adhering to its commitment to exceptional craftsmanship. CEO Andrea Buccellati elucidates the rationale.

Buccellati’s exhibition at MGM Macau, Timeless Beauty with Century-Old Craftsmanship

According to Andrea Buccellati, the brand's honorary chairman and creative director, Buccellati jewelry is composed of three elements: Italianate style and design, meticulous craftsmanship, and elaborate decorative techniques rooted in the Renaissance period. The outcome is jewelry that is immediately identifiable: unique in its exceptional detail and opulent in its utilization of precious metals and diamonds.

“Our style is distinctive and specific, and I believe the paramount consideration in my design process is to remain true to our tradition,” Buccellati states in Macau. In September, he attended the grand opening of the maison’s boutique at MGM Macau, alongside the temporary brand display titled Timeless Beauty with Century-Old Craftsmanship, held at the same venue.

Buccellati's faith is so strong that he is unconcerned about widespread admiration for the brand's creations. “We do not aspire to appeal to the entire world,” he states—regarding the 104-year-old maison’s jewelry, “either you adore it or you do not.” The brand's jewellery collections, including Macri, Opera, and Tulle, have become design hallmarks of the maison, while its high jewellery collections, such as the Byzantine-inspired Mosaico introduced this July, exceed the already remarkable sophistication of the jewellery collections.

Andrea Buccellati, honorary chairman and creative director of Buccellati

Buccellati asserts that there is no necessity to differentiate the brand's products by area. “I do not implement any specific strategies for the Asian market; I merely concentrate on our design, and the Asian market genuinely values our work, particularly the craftsmanship,” he states. “I assert that Asian consumers are highly cultured; they appreciate the historical context and traditions embodied in Buccellati products. Therefore, we need not alter our style for various markets, but rather preserve our aesthetic and continue to uphold it.”

The newly established Buccellati boutique at the MGM Macau

This distinctive style has been maintained since the establishment of the maison by Mario Buccellati, the grandfather of Buccellati, in 1919, and persists now under the co-creative direction of Lucrezia Buccellati Wildenstein, the first woman to design for the brand.

The maison’s artisans utilize traditional engraving methods, including rigato, which entails etching fine parallel or radial lines into precious metals, and modellato, which creates intricate three-dimensional reliefs; honeycomb or lace-like openwork; chaining gemstones to create a textile-like structure; and twisting finely extruded gold thread into diverse shapes and elements.

Certain crafts have been integral to the brand since its inception, and although more elaborate jewelry, which is labor-intensive and costly to produce, has encountered competition from the emergence of contemporary, minimalist designs over the past century, the allure of handcrafted artworks remains robust. “Our challenge within the company lies in achieving sufficient production, as I refuse to compromise on quality or style; thus, production is constrained due to the handcrafted nature of our products,” states Buccellati.

The allure of the maison's jewellery is found in the imperfections crafted by human hands, as he elucidates. “Jewelry produced by machine is instantly identifiable due to its excessive perfection, which lacks the qualities of craftsmanship or artisanal skill.” In a realm where micro-trends can bewilder consumers and the demand for rapidity prevails, a steadfast commitment to heritage and old methods may appear almost outdated and charming; nonetheless, Buccellati asserts that the maison will unwaveringly adhere to its values. “Jewellery is not an item to be worn a mere ten times before discarding,” he asserts. “It is a lifelong purchase that can be bequeathed to your offspring.” The awe experienced when appreciating a handcrafted masterpiece may represent the pinnacle of luxury.