Blancpain Introduces the Fifty Fathoms in a Streamlined 38.2mm Case
- Joe Lim
- Jun 23
- 4 min read
Two decades following its contemporary resurgence, the Fifty Fathoms is now available in a more compact size that retains its iconic essence while broadening its attractiveness to diverse wrists, genders, and lifestyles.
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm presents a more subdued dive watch that the community has desired since the model's reintroduction in 2003. Since then, Blancpain has received feedback from us expressing a desire for a more compact iteration of the Fifty Fathoms, one of the two contenders for the designation of "world's first dive watch." Blancpain steadfastly asserted that the Fifty Fathoms model, designed for professionals in 1953, could not be smaller than its 45mm dimension. The initial model measured 41mm.
Aside from a few limited editions over the years, Blancpain has always indicated that it will not acquiesce to ongoing demands for a smaller diver model. Even for women, who play a significant role in the diving community. We may cease our complaints, since there is now an array of Fifty Fathoms Automatique models available to meet those persistent demands, namely measuring 38.2mm. This release from the brand appeared to be somewhat subtle, given the initial two 38.2mm launches last week seemed to be independent announcements. Indeed, we composed this entire narrative (predominantly) without awareness of additional watches forthcoming… A sign that additional models were forthcoming was the unusually delayed reaction of the Internet.
Regarding the models of the two females last week, may either of these seemingly designed-for-her watches attract male interest? The choice is subjective; nonetheless, for the Singaporean audience, we believe one of these models would be ideal for SG60.
In all honesty, we believe that most expert analysts, ourselves included, never anticipated the emergence of a Fifty Fathoms model smaller than 40mm. The smallest watch in the collection measures 42mm, with any smaller variants, such as those from Hodinkee, limited to exclusive editions. The presence of the Bathyscaphe line, which features more modest dimensions, appeared to make inquiries regarding lesser Fifty Fathoms alternatives irrelevant. Such suggestions may be deemed somewhat uncivil, one could contend. The Bathyscaphe is an exceptional dive watch; yet, it does not compare to the Fifty Fathoms.
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is a quintessential icon, and if it aligns with your preference for dive watches, nothing can replace it. This is the archetype from which all dive watches originate; it predates ISO standards. The original Fifty Fathoms established the norm or anticipated it, if you choose. This indicates that its shape and character are inviolable, and yet… Blancpain has evidently modified the timepiece from its original 1953 design. No one believes that the 2003 contemporary Fifty Fathoms was a precise reproduction, nor the 2007 iteration that marked the watch's reintroduction to the standard collection. Blancpain does not produce reproductions, nor does any watchmaking company that values its own individuality.
Before proceeding, a formal introduction is necessary, and we will arrange everything chronologically by release date. Initially, we present the two ladies’ automatic 38.2mm dive watches: one in red gold, designated Ref. 5007 3644A, and the other in brushed grade 23 titanium, designated Ref. 5007 12B44R. Both timepieces are 12mm thick, exhibiting no remarkable distinction, and are driven by the identical automatic Calibre 1153, which offers a power reserve of 100 hours; nevertheless, they lack chronometer certification. The water resistance is 300 meters, and Blancpain has indeed provided a display caseback. The titanium model features a pink dégradé mother-of-pearl dial, whereas the red gold watch is equipped with a black dégradé mother-of-pearl face. Blancpain designates these hues as petal pink and smokey black. The titanium variant prominently features pink, as shown.
Accompanying these two early birds are three officially "genderless" models, all of same size and equipped with the same Calibre 1153. The references are: Ref. 5007 1130 71S (polished steel with black dial and bezel); Ref. 5007 12B40 98S (satin brushed grade 23 titanium with blue dial and bezel); and Ref. 5007 36B40 O52B (red gold with blue dial and bezel, with a sailcloth strap). Notably, all 38.2mm models lack a date function, marking a first for the Fifty Fathoms collection. Although such decision may be praised by the most irritable proponents of the date window dispute, the same cannot be said for the horn spacing of all 38.2mm versions, which measures 19mm. This differs from the 42mm versions (21.5mm) and the 45mm models (23mm); this has ramifications for individuals who constantly change straps and should be acknowledged.
Having not worn these watches in any capacity, whether prototypes or otherwise, it is challenging to evaluate them in comparison to others. The balance may be somewhat inaccurate or precisely correct, however we conjecture that the fit over a wetsuit may be suboptimal. The appearance of the timepieces clearly indicates that these recent offerings are designed for recreational use rather than professional purposes. This suggests that it is intended as a secondary timepiece or the primary watch for an individual who does not utilize it for diving purposes. The trademark inscribed on the case flank persists in the 38.2mm variant, a characteristic that has garnered considerable discussion. It is likely beneficial that the collection retains further aspects of its collective identity; we did not initially consider inquiring about the flank logo.
We conclude this initial overview of images and specifications with a statement from Marc A. Hayek, President and CEO of Blancpain, which was part of the press materials and is pretty engaging. The Fifty Fathoms transcends its function as a diver's watch; it epitomizes exploration and invention. The introduction of new models addresses a distinct demand while reinforcing that this collection was intended for all wrist sizes. It represents a natural and significant evolution for a timepiece originally designed for underwater use, intended for wear in any environment.
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