Benoit de Clerck, the newly appointed CEO of Zenith, is eager to commence his tenure.
- Ashok Soman
- May 6
- 8 min read
Benoit de Clerck is an experienced watchmaker. He shares his surprises from the initial 100 days in leadership and what may also astonish you.
The movements within the upper echelons of the watchmaking industry are meticulously scrutinized, hence it was unsurprising when Julien Tornare was appointed to the leadership position at TAG Heuer. The appointment of his successor as CEO at Zenith was certain to generate considerable interest, as Tornare's achievements had created substantial expectations. We have been documenting the seemingly perpetual succession of successes originating from the production in Le Locle for years. Prior to Watches and Wonders Geneva (WWG), we had a degree of apprehension regarding one of our preferred brands, leading the tale to follow a familiar trajectory.
Nearly every narrative regarding Benoit de Clerck's ascension to the leadership position at Zenith commences with allusions to his predecessors, which may be unjust. As a consummate professional and genuine watch aficionado, it is unnecessary to question whether de Clerck can adapt to any role. He possesses his own. Undoubtedly, one does not attain the CEO position in an LVMH watch business by responding to a job advertisement; hence, de Clerck possesses notably outstanding qualifications, including a lifetime dedicated to the watch industry. The Belgian national managed the Middle East market for TAG Heuer in 1999 before to LVMH's acquisition of the brand. However, in the realm of horology, the narrative truly commences with IWC…
Encountering new individuals in this industry invariably directs us into intricate complexities. How many times did we encounter de Clerck at various watch fairs prior to our initial meeting at WWG this year? Did we ever observe that renowned IWC on his wrist, possibly at a Ronan Keating concert? In contrast to numerous executives in this industry, de Clerck allegedly committed fully to mechanical timepieces from a young age, enduring teasing from friends for his fascination with "grandfather watches."
This refers to the IWC Pilot’s Watch, which de Clerck purchased independently as his inaugural serious timepiece, subsequently evolving into a notable narrative for the emerging executive. It truly flourished when he assumed the role of IWC’s President of North America in the late 2000s, following a series of posts inside Richemont on a global scale. Although we received this narrative indirectly, you can explore it in an excellent article by Grifin Bartsch of Worn & Wound. We will revisit this topic during our next discussion of the Pilot line at Zenith, although we did engage in an entertaining dialogue about this collection here, despite its limited presence in this year's roster.
De Clerck’s notoriety, particularly from his tenure as Chief Commercial Officer at Richemont for Panerai, surpasses that of any watch. Our confidential sources indicate that he was indeed a personable individual there, despite his claims of being a "numbers guy." De Clerck exemplifies a leader who collaborates intimately with his staff, consistently valuing their contributions; he personifies the "no ego" attitude that Tornare cultivated at Zenith. De Clerck affirms his alignment with the principles of a compassionate manager and intends to persist in that ethos at Zenith. I contend that my most effective representatives are those with whom I collaborate. I neither accept rejection nor affirmation. We frequently confront one another within the organization and at the executive committee level to reach a consensus on many subjects. Indeed, there are occasions when I must make decisions, and I am entirely comfortable with that, as it is my designated role.
Without delay, here is our discussion with Benoit de Clerck.
Firstly, congratulations on your appointment as CEO! Inform us of your current progress.
It has been slightly over 100 days since I assumed the role of CEO at Zenith. Prior to my enrollment, I resolved to establish a milestone of 100 days, which is a distinctly American approach, but I did not consider what I could accomplish during that timeframe. I resolved to refrain from judgment and instead to assimilate all that has transpired at Zenith. I was unaware of the challenge involved in refraining from expressing one's viewpoint for a duration of 100 days, to be candid.
It was beneficial to adopt a receptive stance, particularly by inquiring more frequently. I visited the facility in Le Locle. I encountered watchmakers and drivers. I met all the engineers and the entire team. As the new CEO, I encountered numerous journalists who are authorities in the watch industry. I disclosed my apprehensions and worries to them. I endeavored to comprehend, and I felt immense satisfaction, since after 100 days, I believe I made the correct decision! Zenith is an exquisite brand. It is a brand rich in history, tradition, authenticity, and identity. As a watch aficionado, or at least due to my extensive experience in the industry, I believed I was well-acquainted with Zenith. Upon entering Zenith and encountering the manufacturing processes and the personnel involved, I exclaimed, "Oh my God!" This is not the Zenith I anticipated. It is superior!
Thus far, in response to your inquiry, all is well. I am quite enthusiastic about the favorable condition at Zenith, and the brand is poised to sustain its growth.
What unexpected findings did you uncover regarding Zenith?
For instance, I was unaware of the Pilot matter we addressed regarding the Pilot series unveiled last year and Zenith's exclusive right to utilize the term "Pilot" on the dial. This exemplifies a common misconception regarding Zenith, as neither de Clerck nor the author were aware of the Pilot narrative; several experts and specialists were similarly uninformed, for the record – Ed. I was unaware that Zenith will commemorate its 160th anniversary next year; I did not realize that Zenith had persisted in the same site for 160 years, enduring natural disasters, wars, and several other challenges. This is of significant importance.
I was aware, as you are, that Zenith developed El Primero, the inaugural automated chronograph calibre. I was unaware that they possess over 2,400 chronometry awards. That is astonishing! I have identified numerous insights on Zenith since my affiliation, but the following are, in my view, the most pertinent. The Pilot is undoubtedly exceptional.
The historical significance of Zenith is profound, resulting in varied perceptions and recollections of the brand, contingent upon the timing of individual encounters. We previously engaged in discussions with Jean-Claude Biver and subsequently Julien Tornare (predecessors of de Clerck) over the problem of persuading collectors to purchase a Zenith watch instead of merely appreciating its history and legacy from a distance. In what manner has this task progressed?
Initially, Julien Tornare, with whom I was well acquainted, executed an exemplary job; in my perspective, Zenith resembled Sleeping Beauty, and Julien successfully roused her from slumber. However, she remains in bed, and it is my responsibility today. I must encourage her to become independent. Subsequently, my next responsibility will be to facilitate her ambulation; however, my initial task is to assist her in achieving an upright position. Indeed, it is a metaphor; I apologize for that, but it represents my perspective.
I meticulously analyzed every available facts. I am driven by numerical data. I have an affinity for statistics, hence I requested the data on our clients and observed that, over the past few years, they have been becoming younger. This is favorable news as it indicates the presence of a younger generation evolving with us, while the collectors remain engaged. Thus, in both units sold and value, the collector market has exhibited consistency. The positive aspect is that the company possesses two robust foundations: collectors and a younger clientele. We are acquiring younger customers, which is an ideal outcome, as it indicates the brand's robust condition both presently and in the foreseeable future.
Currently, we are fortunate to sell our production enough, and we do not encounter issues with inventory. There is significant demand for intricate timepieces, including bespoke options, which we are capable of producing, and this is advantageous. The appeal of Zenith now lies in the substantial value offered in timepieces across all tiers of horology. I am certain that this is how we successfully engaged a younger demographic with the brand. They are not 12 or 14 years old; rather, they are in their first or second employment and are closer to their 30s. Consequently, they possess sufficient spare income to purchase a high-quality timepiece from a distinguished brand such as Zenith. However, it is somewhat more expensive than others; they can acquire something genuine with true tradition and history.
In this regard, Zenith has achieved considerable success with both historic collections like the Chronomaster and the Revival, as well as current collections such as the Defy Skyline and the Defy Extreme. How do you navigate the contrast between reflection and anticipation?
This constitutes a facet of the brand's heritage. Consider the Defy Extreme and Revival Diver as examples. The new Divers are influenced by the original Defy released in 1969, which is why the orange rim is included to maintain the connection between the two timepieces. The 1969 watch was water-resistant to 600 meters, which is remarkable for a timepiece from 55 years ago; few manufacturers produced watches with such water resistance. We enhanced the new Defy Diver, enhancing its quality. The watch retains its water-resistance but is now housed in a titanium casing featuring an exhibition caseback. We rigorously test the watches to a depth of 750 meters to ensure reliability, as titanium watches were not manufactured at that time, particularly those featuring an exhibition caseback.
The dive watch has been absent from our inventory for approximately 20 years; it was rather remarkable at that time, yet still a quality product. The Defy Extreme and Revival Diver watches are now more akin to instruments for divers. The item includes three straps: a titanium bracelet, a rubber strap, and notably, a strap constructed from repurposed fishing nets. A strap composed entirely of recyclable materials. These alternatives allow you to wear the watch over your wetsuit, which is rather impressive.
This leads me to a question we have been posing to brand leaders lately: how can you achieve success with a popular model that must contend with the dominant competitor in your sector?
Competition is beneficial; nevertheless, we offer credibility and the advantage of not being a large brand. Our customers like that we are a highly people-oriented brand rather than an impersonal conglomerate. Our organization fosters strong emotional connections, as both management and I are acquainted with each watchmaker and every employee; this personal relationship is of significant importance. We could significantly increase our turnover and the volume of watches sold, but that is not our objective. This significantly impacts informed individuals. I firmly believe that Zenith is a watch brand for the discerning connoisseur. This refers to both seasoned connoisseurs and collectors, as well as emerging enthusiasts who desire to possess a distinctive timepiece that sets them apart from the masses. That is also of great significance.
Consequently, let us go to the new Defy Skyline Chronograph. What prompted your decision to include a chronograph in this collection, beyond its role in defining Zenith's identity?
The chronograph defines our identity. Upon the launch of the Defy Skyline featuring three hands, we received numerous demands for a chronograph from various markets, collectors, and connoisseurs. From the outset, namely from our initial meeting with de Clerck on the second day of WWG, the interest and demand have exceeded all expectations.
It is beneficial to be informed! Is there a certain watch that you desire from Zenith that is now unavailable?
Next year, we will commemorate our 160th anniversary, a significant milestone, as few brands have the privilege of celebrating 160 years, particularly in the same location. I am diligently collaborating with the creative team on this milestone. In collaboration with the product team and the marketing department. This is a significant challenge and is highly exhilarating; here is where you will observe our endeavors.
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