Alessandro Ficarelli, CMO of Panerai, Discusses the Brand's Sustainability Initiatives and Communication Strategies

Alessandro Ficarelli articulates his perspectives on eSteel and the significance of client communication, among other topics, in an exclusive conversation.

Image: Panerai

Panerai's presentation at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022 continues from the previous year, as the watchmaker reiterates its dedication to sustainable watchmaking. Following the unveiling of the Panerai Submersible eLAB-ID concept watch and the introduction of its recycled steel alloy, eSteel, last year, Panerai is operating at full capacity with the launch of the Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel and has confidently announced its transition from conventional steel to eSteel by 2025. Asaph Low, Contributing Editor of WOW, interviewed Alessandro Ficarelli, Chief Marketing Officer of Panerai, who discussed eSteel, the significance of client communication, and the rationale for Panerai's new collaboration with Watchfinder & Co.

Firstly, congratulations on the remarkable innovations. Which collection do you prefer the most?

It is akin to inquiring about my preferred child; nonetheless, to set aside humor, I am currently wearing the Submersible Luna Rossa, which I greatly admire. The Submersible is among my favorites, specifically the Carbotech (PAM01232) or alternatively the Bianco version (PAM01226). The combination of PAM01226 with the green strap evokes memories of summer.

Panerai is advancing towards sustainable watchmaking. In what manner will Panerai convey this information efficiently and properly to clients?

Submersible Quaranta Quattro Steel

We are enhancing our website to feature the sustainability sections on the landing page. Approximately two years ago, we eliminated the instruction leaflets; this year, we are introducing a new packaging box constructed from recycled materials. Products represent merely the surface of a broader spectrum, encompassing communication procedures, personnel, the infrastructure, and advocates like Mike Horn. Our sustainable framework, referred to internally as Ecologico, encompasses both the organization and its subsidiaries.

What problems did Panerai encounter while dealing with steel?

We initially collaborated with Mike Horn on the EcoTitanium project a few years ago and discovered our capability to manufacture and machine recycled titanium. The problems of eSteel are reworking, purifying, and maintaining the same quality standards as conventional steel. As the purity of steel increases, its machinability diminishes, resulting in frequent damage to our machining heads. The rejection rate is significantly elevated, however we are making progress. We announce that by 2025, we will transition all standard steel production to eSteel, composed of 95 percent recycled steel.

How does Panerai reconcile client requirements and desires with the brand's vision while developing new products?

Alessandro Ficarelli, Panerai Image: Panerai

This is an excellent inquiry. When we introduce sustainable products, the younger generation inquires why such initiatives were not implemented earlier. We heed our clients' feedback. The Submersible QuarantaQuattro exemplifies Panerai's client-centric philosophy. We are receiving unprecedented input, data, and insights into our customers' preferences and desires through our boutiques and digital platforms. Furthermore, it is imperative to honor the DNA and aesthetic principles of Panerai, necessitating the development of evolutions and a reduction in average size. We now possess the 38mm Luminor Due and are engaging directly with female clientele, a practice that was previously absent. Despite Panerai's heritage of manly timepieces and instruments designed for the Italian Navy, the brand ultimately extends its appeal to consumers drawn to its Italian essence, lifestyle, and the fusion of Italian and Swiss horological elegance.

Panerai is one of the most esteemed watch groups; how does Panerai maintain engagement with this group and, more importantly, attract new client demographics?

This morning, I met with the individual who founded Paneristi 21 years ago, then an Italian Paneristi contacted me on my journey. We are now more client-centric, as seen by our availability through email, WhatsApp, and various social media channels. Our CEO, Jean-Marc Pontroue, has introduced this new mindset and engages with everyone, as we have nothing to conceal; this transparency facilitates open dialogue. We acknowledge client comments, prioritize attentive listening, and strive to enhance our brand and achieve our objectives.

What is the impetus for the new collaboration with Watchfinder & Co.?

Submersible S Blue Shadow Brabus Edition

In recent years, it has been evident that the secondhand market is expanding, particularly among the individuals at Watchfinder & Co. Engaging in the secondhand market allows for a deeper understanding of clients; the data and insights obtained are invaluable. What does a consumer purchase upon selling a Panerai? Is it a new Panerai or a different brand? Furthermore, it aligns with our sustainability objectives by providing a second life to the timepieces. A consumer may sell their Panerai for new timepieces available at Watchfinder's boutiques in London, Geneva, and Paris. Sustainability encompasses not merely the recycling of materials but also the activation of the secondary economy, with trading being one such activity.

Panerai is engaged in numerous intriguing collaborations, the latest of which is with Brabus. What specific factors does Panerai evaluate when selecting appropriate organizations for collaboration?

In the case of Brabus, we together aimed to mitigate environmental effect and collaborated on ideas and solutions. The Submersible Brabus Edition is derived from the Brabus Shadow 900. Our primary partnership is with Luna Rossa for the America’s Cup, focusing on sailing and performance; so, we considered establishing a comparable collaboration with Brabus and their speedboats. During our journey, we recognized that we possess numerous mutual clientele that appreciate Brabus and Panerai, and they want something distinctive.