Christine Nagel On Her Latest Hermès Fragrance

We accompany Christine Nagel in an exploration of earth and stone for her latest fragrance from Hermès.

The number of master perfumers is less than that of astronauts, establishing it as a profession with significant barriers to admission. Christine Nagel is a distinguished master perfumer and the chief perfumer at Hermès. Her most recent product, Terre d’Hermès Eau de Parfum Intense, is inspired by the profundities of the Earth. Men’s Folio Malaysia engages in a discussion with her to gain insights on the new fragrance.

It is a pleasure to converse with you once more. We shall commence with a brief overview of the Terre d’Hermes Eau de Parfum.

In this new chapter of the Terre d’Hermès narrative, I aimed to convey through scent an additional aspect of the earth: its volcanoes, together with the warmth and intensity of an inner fire surging vigorously to the surface.

The essence of this fragrance conveys a raw, almost visceral intensity. Could you elaborate on the inspiration for this piece?

Isn’t the Earth captivating in its myriad expressions? Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée originated from the concept of an untouched, pristine earth, vibrant beneath a layer of frost. The latest installment, Terre d’Hermès Eau de Parfum Intense, presents a further dimension of the planet that fascinates me: its volcanoes. I experience profound artistic feeling upon witnessing this underground force, this primal fire that emerges from the earth's depths as a rock, dense and unequivocal in its blackness. Nevertheless, it is remarkably lightweight.

We also experience sensations of restrained might. Internally contained, yet manifesting as a latent source of energy. Are we accurate regarding this fragrance?

That is entirely correct. For this new creation, I aimed to delve into the depths of the ground. A ground beneath which a fire smolders. A world that is darker yet warmer, more fiery and passionate; I also sought to investigate a more intimate and profound aspect of humanity, one that reveals the inner fire that propels us.

Did any notable substances get your attention?

I wish to highlight the licorice note. To express the intense energy of this inner fire, I will commence with bold bergamot, a touch of black pepper, and a note of charred cedarwood. A supplier subsequently introduced me to an extraordinary substance, previously unutilized in perfumery. It is a natural licorice root that was found four years prior. The licorice note in perfumery is frequently produced using synthetic substances.

Another component is roasted coffee. This was tough to utilize due to issues with color and quality consistency. When roasted, its scent can vary. I have been attempting to utilize it for an extended period, and now one of my suppliers has successfully developed a consistently reproducible coffee.

Were there any design considerations about the bottle that are not widely known?

I believe that a fragrance is intrinsically linked to the vessel that contains it. The ideal bottle harmonizes with the aroma, providing structure and being indelibly linked to it in our recollection. It is characterized by its style, the influence of the individual and expertise that produced it, as well as its forms and details inherent to the establishment and its quality. It is refined, practical, and comfy, yet also representative and iconic.

In conclusion, what does creative freedom signify for you?

This concept is highly valued by the establishment and is remarkable within an industry dominated by marketing. The responsibility of a house like as Hermès, which provides us with creative autonomy, is to be audacious and introduce novel trajectories.